i have a 2000 tiburon 5speed manual. at high rpm's ( between 4000-redline) 1st gear grinds and the shifter shakes. also anyting over 3000rpm"s it grinds going into 2nd gear. but 3500 rpm"s and down it shifts fine and doesnt shake. any ideas to what this can be?! the clutch fluid was relpaced.

pete

 

not the clutch fluid causing that, thats for sure. it just actuates the clutch itself. i'm almost wondering if the clutch is worn and slipping...if it was the trans itself it sounds more like gear tooth wear which would be odd for a 2000. kinda young for that, but hey its possible. try replacing the gear oil in the gearbox with a synthetic maybe. if it makes any difference at all to your problem then you know it isnt the clutch. if does nothing other than smooth out shifting a tad then i think you've got a blown clutch.

if it is the clutch the good news is the parts aren't really that expensvie and its quite doable on your own if you have the tools/time/space/knowledge to do so. you'd be looking at new clutch disc, throwout bearing, a new pressure plate is always a good idea for the price, and simply get the flywheel machined. use new bolts on the flywheel for sure.

 

Like the man said, replace the gearbox oil. It takes 3 quarts. Make sure you use the right stuff. Refer to your owners manual.

2000 > G 2.0 DOHC > Transaxle/Transmission REPLACEMENT OF TRANSAXLE GEAR OILUse HP Gear Oil SAE 75W/85W (API-GL 4)[/align]1.With the vehicle parked on a level surface, remove the drain plug and drain the transaxle oil.[/align]2.Replace the gasket with a new one and install the drain plug.[/align]3.Add new oil through the filler plug, filling to the same level as the plug opening.[/align] [/align] findme('); findme('); findme(');

In addition, bleed the clutch fluid. It's a real common problem in Hyundai that they get some dirt or metal shavings in the clutch system, and it may have something to do with your problem. It's a real simple proceedure, takes about 5 minutes once you assemble everything you need.


2000 > G 2.0 DOHC > Clutch System BLEEDINGWhenever the clutch tube, the clutch hose, and/or the clutch master cylinder have been removed, or if the clutch pedal is spongy, bleed the system.[/align]Use the specified fluid. Avoid mixing different brands of fluids.[/align]Specified fluid: SAE J1703 (DOT 3)[/align]1.Loosen the bleeder screw at the clutch release cylinder.[/align]2.Push the clutch pedal down slowly until all air is expelled.[/align]3.Hold the clutch pedal down until the bleeder is retightened.[/align]4.Refill the clutch master cylinder with the specified fluid.[/align]The rapidly-repeated operation of the clutch pedal in B-C range may cause the release cylinder's position to be forced out from the release cylinder body during the air bleeding, repress the clutch pedal after it returns to the "A" point completely[/align] [/align] findme('); findme('); findme(');

 

the good news is changing the gearbox oil is so easy its a joke. just get a drainpan, pull the drainplug, then the fill plug, put the drainplug back on once its drained and fill 'er up. i'd recommend some tubing that you can slide into the fill plug hole to make it easier. you can just dump the new oil down that tube. 3/8" would be ideal.