Welcome!

 

I experienced this issue now 2nd time. First time was about 6 months ago when they reset transmission software and let me go.

yesterday, I experienced it again. The Palisade shakes when about to move, make weird sound from engine when u listen closely from outside the SUV.

more serious issue is the Palisade automatically goes to N (neutral) while driving and I have to stop in the middle of the freeway to restart the car change shift to D then drive.

when I stop on red light, again gear shift automatically goes to N.
I have to turn on the engine button and move to D to move the SUV again. This is a pain- Hyundai needs to recall all palisade 2020 for this issue- my dealer hasn’t call me till now. I am going to make service appointment for this possibly “transmission issue”, hopefully I do not get this issue again.







QUOTE=seabrooke;10011]...I've posted on here earlier about shaking problems with my car. I will run over it one more time. When the car's engine is warm it begins to shake when I am stopped at a red light, not moving. When you apply the AC the car begins to shake even more. If you place the car into Neutral the shaking STOPS!

Now, I believe that I may be closer to resolving this "well known problem with HYUNDAI'S."

My father worked in the automotive induxtry for 37 years and he called a freind of his who owns a local garage for the "honest truth" concerning this Hyundai shaking problem. Apparently this guy said that it is a transmission problem. Hence the real reasons why Hyundai does not want to be honest to hyundai owners about. Like any NORMAL transmission, when you make a stop the transmission is suppose to shift down (3,2,1, and then go into neutral.) Apparently there is a well known problem with Hyundai's not shifting all the way down to neutral. Hence the REAL REASON for the mysterious hyundai shaking problems. This could be solved by a minor adjustment or it may even involve a sensor. YEAH, another SENSOR PROBLEM WITH THESE EXPENSIVE PIECES OF JUNK.

So when I get this problem looked at, and if it gets resolved, I will comfirm it with you all on this forum. So that in the future if there are any others who experience this problem (which many hyundai owners do or eventually will) you will NOW know what the REAL problem is with it.
No, it is NOT the timing belt, it has nothing to do with burning oil and the intake, it has nothing to do with engine mounts, etc... It is a transmission problem! These Hyundai's are shaking because they are not shifting down to neutral when you slow down and make a stop.

Anybody else experiencing this problem??? Come on now, do not be afraid to say it because you know who you are! This is a well known problem with Hyundai's and nobody ever seems to get the company to admit the truth to them concerning it. Gezzz, i wonder why??? Yeah, that is just Hyundai trying to avoid another recall![/QUOTE]

 

WOW, what a theory !
All kidding aside, how about a little FYI, OK?

NO, repeat. NO automatic transmission downshifts to neutral coming to a stop. It does downshift to first that is geared so low the vehicle usually doesn't move until RPM comes up. The torque converter allows the vehicle to sit in gear with brake applied.
No offense to the gent with all that experience, but vehicles today are way different from those of only 10 years ago. To suggest the problem is one thing or another WITHOUT actually checking the vehicle in person,is a crap shoot at best, been there done that and regretted the dumb move
.Most folks are too busy to have regular maintenance done ,but will complain when the vehicle is crying for attention.
We can throw out all kinds of opinions that may or may not be the cause of a problem.
If we are so sure it is a definite trans problem, why aren't we having an experienced trans shop check it?

 

My daughters 2017 elantra is doing the same damn thing.. I will DEFINITELY be taking this back to the dealership yet again after reading all this information!!

THANK YOU!

 

When computers first came out in automobiles, that was the first thing to blame because shops didn't understand how to check them and determine what the problem was,
The same thing came out when fuel injection was instituted.
It is difficult to find a good shop that ,,,,,,,has access to the info, you have to pay for that with a subscription, invest in the training and the tools. So they wing it and the customer pays. It is CRITICAL that the tech/shop has the knowledge and tools to diagnose problems on today's vehicles.
Without those tools , it becomes a guessing game and again the customer pays.
There are more electronics in today's vehicles than the first spaceship that went to the moon, no joke.
The problem is finding a good shop with a trained tech. Don't kid yourself, the dealers have a problem getting good people too.
The majority of the time the REGULAR maintenance does prevent a lot of these problems..Regular maintenance is a lot more than regular oil and filter changes..

 

great reply hanky. people never blame themselves for what is wrong with their vehicles such as how they drive, oil change, mileage, etc.

 

[QUOTE=seabrooke;10011]...

yes and no. Hyundai i20 2012.

My car shakes/vibrates like absolute crazy. I owned it for roughly 6 months before this problem started. It started off minor, and has since gotten worse and worse.

I had it looked at a few days ago, and now it’s way worse than ever before.

I say yes and no because:

Yes, shakes like crazy and gets a lot worse with AC turned on.

No, because
- It gets worse and worse the faster I get, not just a problem when I’m stopped
- Eases up a bit when I put the car in park or neutral, but definitely doesn’t stop completely
- Sound/vibrating starts as soon as I start the car, not just once it’s warmed up.

(Those are the points you mentioned that I remember, I may have missed some)

First time it was looked at, they thought it was a wheel bearing problem but told me to get another opinion

Second time I got it looked at, they said it wasn’t the wheel bearing, they think it’s the exhaust, but told me to get yet another opinion

I’m taking it to get looked at for a third time on Monday, with a new exhaust specific mechanic now, will update if I get a solid answer to what’s actually wrong with the money pit.

Other symptoms (may or may not be connected):
- Breaks are squeaky as hell
- Since getting looked at last time, car now feels like it’s jumping or switching between the left and right wheels when I drive at high speeds
- Vibrating/shaking gets worse going down hill
- Obviously extremely loud
- Rattling can be heard under engine, I tried to pinpoint and the sound seems to be coming from around the timing belt
- Sound/vibrating/shaking almost stops (gets a lot better) when turning left (hence why they originally thought it was a wheel bearing problem on the passenger side)
- As you can imagine, it gets a lot worse when turning right

 

[QUOTE=Kenee;56388]

Don’t keep driving it,

I avoided getting mine looked at for months, I didn’t have the money, was busy with work and uni, and from what I could tell it had stopped getting worse.

I bring you to the present, it got worse. Worse than ever before, it now feels like it’s jumping between wheels at high speeds, I’m absolutely lost on what to do. Have gotten it looked at twice and going in for a third time

 

My first impression is , the places you are taking your vehicle have no idea what can produce this or they would have corrected the problem.

Either you are not reporting the info correctly or you are getting a "Snow job".

At least get a diagnosis from a dealership service dept. You have to pay one way or another so get the most for your hard earned $$. Then you can make your decision.

Not all parts replacers are capable of doing a good diagnosis and that is why you are having such a problem.

Please don't misunderstand what I am trying to pass on to you, it just irks us to see how gullible some folks can be.

 

In your opinion would it be safe to continue to drive for a couple weeks until I can get it fixed??