1998 hyundai accent rotors
#2
RE: 1998 hyundai accent rotors
I just replaced the rotors on my 99 Accent. Not sure if it's the same. 1. Set the parking brake or chock the rear wheels. 2.Break loose the lug nuts. 3. Jack up and remove the wheel. 4. Put the vehicle under a jackstand on that side if you have one, block it up somehow. 5. The brake caliper, rotor disc and axle hub should now be visible.
6. There is one bolt holding the brake caliper in place - remove it. The other side of the caliper is held in place by a pin. You will need to rotate the whole caliper assembly up I believe (brake pads & all) until it clears the rotor disc, then you can slide the whole assembly off of the pin. A screwdriver may be useful in prying the caliper up out of it's mounting. Be careful not to scratch the rotor face unless you're not gonna reuse it. You can also create a little slack on either side of the rotor by removing the brake fluid reservoir cap and then pushing the brake pad outwards away from the rotor disc. Make a note of all the shims and keepers surrounding the pads. Mine had a small clip for the bottom and top of the pads and a shim for each pad. 7. There's a mounting bracket on the inside near the caliper it's held in place by two bolts, you'll need to remove this. 8. The center wheel hub has 4 bolts around the center castle nut. These will need to be removed to separate the rotor from the hub, these are what also keep the wheel studs in position. 9. Remove the center nut cotter pin. 10. Now for the fun part. The center hub nut is very very tight. I had to reinstall the lug nuts to prevent damage to the threads of the studs. Get you a sturdy prybar. Position it through the wheel studs so that it prevents the wheel hub from rotating while your breaking the center nut loose in a counterclockwise direction. OR you can have someone sit on the opposite wheel fender to keep the opposite tire from turning if you don't have that side jacked up. 11. Once the nut is off your almost there. I borrowed a three jaw gear puller from the auto parts store. One parts guy told me that the axle would push in enough from slack in the CV joint and the center hub would pop off with a few blows of a soft faced hammer on the center stud. I found this not to be the case. I connected the gear puller jaws to the backside of the center hub flange while centering the gear puller stud into the center of the hub axle stud. It's much smaller in diameter than the center hub stud. I screwed it in until the center hub popped loose. A roller bearing will come out with it. Installation is essentially the reverse of removal. You might want to make a note of how many threads are remaining & nut position/orientation of the center axle stud just in case you don't have the torque specs. when reinstalling it. Good luck.
6. There is one bolt holding the brake caliper in place - remove it. The other side of the caliper is held in place by a pin. You will need to rotate the whole caliper assembly up I believe (brake pads & all) until it clears the rotor disc, then you can slide the whole assembly off of the pin. A screwdriver may be useful in prying the caliper up out of it's mounting. Be careful not to scratch the rotor face unless you're not gonna reuse it. You can also create a little slack on either side of the rotor by removing the brake fluid reservoir cap and then pushing the brake pad outwards away from the rotor disc. Make a note of all the shims and keepers surrounding the pads. Mine had a small clip for the bottom and top of the pads and a shim for each pad. 7. There's a mounting bracket on the inside near the caliper it's held in place by two bolts, you'll need to remove this. 8. The center wheel hub has 4 bolts around the center castle nut. These will need to be removed to separate the rotor from the hub, these are what also keep the wheel studs in position. 9. Remove the center nut cotter pin. 10. Now for the fun part. The center hub nut is very very tight. I had to reinstall the lug nuts to prevent damage to the threads of the studs. Get you a sturdy prybar. Position it through the wheel studs so that it prevents the wheel hub from rotating while your breaking the center nut loose in a counterclockwise direction. OR you can have someone sit on the opposite wheel fender to keep the opposite tire from turning if you don't have that side jacked up. 11. Once the nut is off your almost there. I borrowed a three jaw gear puller from the auto parts store. One parts guy told me that the axle would push in enough from slack in the CV joint and the center hub would pop off with a few blows of a soft faced hammer on the center stud. I found this not to be the case. I connected the gear puller jaws to the backside of the center hub flange while centering the gear puller stud into the center of the hub axle stud. It's much smaller in diameter than the center hub stud. I screwed it in until the center hub popped loose. A roller bearing will come out with it. Installation is essentially the reverse of removal. You might want to make a note of how many threads are remaining & nut position/orientation of the center axle stud just in case you don't have the torque specs. when reinstalling it. Good luck.
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