2008 Accent GS- stopped working, wont start
#1
2008 Accent GS- stopped working, wont start
Hey everyone,
This has been a month-long journey for me. 4 weeks ago, my Accent stopped working as I pulled up to my house (I guess there is a God). It would not start again- we pushed her in the driveway and opened her up. First thought was Crankshaft Position Sensor, replaced it, nothing.
Second, we took a look at the belts- all accessory belts are new by 8 months, so we opened up the housing for timing belt.
Timing belt was blown to sh--. So we replaced it and tightened it (which was a total b--ch). Timing belt is top dead center, timed, so yes that is not the problem. Along the way, my harmonic balancer/crank pulley broke, so replaced that as well. Finally, we put it all back together, all belts are tightened properly.
Tried to start her up-- nothing.
I figured, she's been sitting a month, maybe try to clean the fuel. So we put starter fluid in the throttle body- nothing.
New air filters, so no vacuum leaks.
Nothing is working!
My next move is to test compression. If that is not the issue, I might try a new ECU.
Biggest question considering the timing belt was missing teeth and hanging, I thought that was the original problem. Is it possible for the car to not start if it is not tightened properly? Should I take it to a shop to have them re-tighten it? We had to rig something to keep the pulley from turning as we tightened the belt- so I'm not sure if that messed with how the force was perceived by my handtool.
Sorry for the long read. I love my Accent GS and I am not ready to sell her/part her out.
-Loren
This has been a month-long journey for me. 4 weeks ago, my Accent stopped working as I pulled up to my house (I guess there is a God). It would not start again- we pushed her in the driveway and opened her up. First thought was Crankshaft Position Sensor, replaced it, nothing.
Second, we took a look at the belts- all accessory belts are new by 8 months, so we opened up the housing for timing belt.
Timing belt was blown to sh--. So we replaced it and tightened it (which was a total b--ch). Timing belt is top dead center, timed, so yes that is not the problem. Along the way, my harmonic balancer/crank pulley broke, so replaced that as well. Finally, we put it all back together, all belts are tightened properly.
Tried to start her up-- nothing.
I figured, she's been sitting a month, maybe try to clean the fuel. So we put starter fluid in the throttle body- nothing.
New air filters, so no vacuum leaks.
Nothing is working!
My next move is to test compression. If that is not the issue, I might try a new ECU.
Biggest question considering the timing belt was missing teeth and hanging, I thought that was the original problem. Is it possible for the car to not start if it is not tightened properly? Should I take it to a shop to have them re-tighten it? We had to rig something to keep the pulley from turning as we tightened the belt- so I'm not sure if that messed with how the force was perceived by my handtool.
Sorry for the long read. I love my Accent GS and I am not ready to sell her/part her out.
-Loren
#2
A blown timing belt usually means that the head is shot.
Bent push rods and holes in pistons are possible.
Would do a compression test
Then do a leak down test
That should tell you the condition of the engine
Or you could take the head off and fix it
Also inspect the pistons.
Wish you good luck
Bent push rods and holes in pistons are possible.
Would do a compression test
Then do a leak down test
That should tell you the condition of the engine
Or you could take the head off and fix it
Also inspect the pistons.
Wish you good luck
#3
Because the Hyundai 1.6 L engine is an Interference engine, that means if the timing belt is allowed to break causing he valves not to move and be moved out of the way of the pistons, those valves that are still held down/open will be bent by the pistons coming up.
I agree with avisitor.
The head will need to be removed and damage repaired or head replaced. Sometimes a rebuilt head can be exchanged for the damaged one. Hopefully no damage would have been done to the pistons. Will not be known until head is removed.
This is the reason timing belts should be replaced around the 60,000 mi time interval. Don't feel badly, this is a common problem if folks don't know to have the belt replaced within that mileage frame.
If the condition of your vehicle AND $$$$ .permit , repair may be a reasonable option.
I agree with avisitor.
The head will need to be removed and damage repaired or head replaced. Sometimes a rebuilt head can be exchanged for the damaged one. Hopefully no damage would have been done to the pistons. Will not be known until head is removed.
This is the reason timing belts should be replaced around the 60,000 mi time interval. Don't feel badly, this is a common problem if folks don't know to have the belt replaced within that mileage frame.
If the condition of your vehicle AND $$$$ .permit , repair may be a reasonable option.
#4
Follow up
@hanky @avisitor so I guess I did not upload my response. I thought I did. Did a compression test yesterday. #1 is at 150psi. #2 at 150psi. #3 at 100psi and #4 at 50psi
Going to open up the head and see what else needs to be replaced. Anything I should look for in particular?
Thank you so much guys
Going to open up the head and see what else needs to be replaced. Anything I should look for in particular?
Thank you so much guys
#5
One of the things I would suggest would be when ready to assemble, make sure the #1 piston is at TDC and all the other timing marks are perfectly lined up. I realize you know how to install the timing belt, but make sure you install the belt and adjust the tensioner in the proper sequence.if only one tooth off , it will have problems. You should rotate the crank pulley at least 2 full turns in the normal direction of rotation and CONFIRM the timing marks line up and are on the money. It has to be perfect ! After that , it's a piece of cake !
#7
A new head could hurt your checkbook !
Most places like NAPA ,or other auto supply stores can get you a rebuilt/exchange head. The cost is much lower and they will usually do the job.. I would suggest to deal locally should any problems come up it is much easier to handle. Just make sure to compare the head gasket very carefully to the one removed ,they should be identical.
Also, if there are any special parts needed they should have them and will let you know. There is always a dealership parts dept..
While you are at it and it's opened up, consider replacing the thermostat and upper and lower radiator hoses and water pump. Much easier to do when it is already apart.
Most places like NAPA ,or other auto supply stores can get you a rebuilt/exchange head. The cost is much lower and they will usually do the job.. I would suggest to deal locally should any problems come up it is much easier to handle. Just make sure to compare the head gasket very carefully to the one removed ,they should be identical.
Also, if there are any special parts needed they should have them and will let you know. There is always a dealership parts dept..
While you are at it and it's opened up, consider replacing the thermostat and upper and lower radiator hoses and water pump. Much easier to do when it is already apart.
Last edited by hanky; 04-01-2019 at 04:50 AM.
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