Accent 1.5 (2000) does not start
#1
Accent 1.5 (2000) does not start
Recently my Accent gave up on me and I went to my local dealer for advice. Unfortunately after spending about 500 Euro on the car, it still won't run and my dealer is just too expensive to keep on searching to some unknown cause. I hope someone can help me out where to look for the problem.
Here are some details about the history of the problem.
The car is a 2000 Accent 1.5 with a LPG system built in just after the first owner bought the car. It has been running fine (however I have had quite a large number of repairs at the Hyundai dealer in town). About 2 months ago the car did not start and the dealer checked the ECU. It gave a fault code about the immobilizer and about the crank shaft sensor. Replacing the crank shaft sensor got rid of the problem and the car started fine again.
Recently the LPG system started to give some troubles, after about 15 minutes of driving the car started to stutter and the only solution to get rid of the stutter, was to switch over to normal fuel and then after about 1 minute, switch back to LPG. When I did that, the problem went away for the rest of the trip. This lasted for about 14 days, then the car did not start aymore. I tried a couple of times, but the left it for the day.
The next day the car started just fine, but I went to the dealer anyway to let them check the car. When I parked at the dealer, the car could run stationary for about 10 seconds and then just turn off (f I recall correctly: on LPG as well as gasoline, but I'm not sure, the car always starts on gasonline and the swtiches to LPG later). Starting it did gave the same result. It went for a while and then switched off again.
A few days later the dealer called with the following disturbing message:
They could not give me any fault code because their scan units could not connect with the motor management module. We know that reading the computer worked fine before (2 months ago). But besides this problem: the car had NOT started at all anymore.
They assumed the immobilizer could be the problem because I reported about this fault code before. I went to a used-parts shop and bought a new transponder module which is fitted around the lock at the steering wheel, to see if that would help, but the problem remained.
Then they left the car for 2 weeks inside the shop to see if it would come up again, but that didn't work either. The car has not started ever since. They noticed that the immobilizer light which is on the dashboard did not light anymore either. I can remember from before, that this light SHOULD come on, stay on for a couple of seconds and then go off again, but now it always remained off.
Next guess was to replace the ECU alltogether. I bought a replacement ECU for the same model/enigine. They replaced the ECU, but ... nothing ... no immobilizer light, and this ECU was not readable by the scan hardware/software either.
They left me with the car suggesting to take out the LPG system as this was not built in by the Hyundai factory and could cause problems to the system, but this would add an additional 250 Euro to the bill, and it could just as well not be the cause of the problem.
Today I spent some time in the car, taking out and plugging in all kinds of connectors and stripping the ECU (i have 2 of them now anyway ) from its cover, making it easier to put a multi-meter on the pins of the ECU itself. I also bought a ELM327 compatible ECU scanner. I tested that device on a VW Passat 2000, in which it works, but in my car it does not work, as suspected, because at the dealer it did not work either.
...
So that's it. The car died and everything 'works' except that it won't start. The left panel of the dash is off so I can see all wires and I fiddled them around but it does not change anything. I took the ECU units home, there are 2 under the dash: one Kefico 9030930078F (it also says 197216 and 39110-22545 and LCE0I53), the other one is a 09385519 Delphi Delco Electronics Systems Dana (it also says: *86DANALM20300251*, there is an additional Necam sticker (the LPG system manufacturer) 238916-003 Hyundai MTG4EB, Delco ITM-6U). Maybe I can check if does anything on the ELM327 cable if I just put 12V on it. Or does anyone have a clue what else I can try?
By the way, the 'check engine light' does not go on either, but I can remember from the past that one of the ECU error codes reported that this actaul light in the dash was faulty...
I hope someone can tell me where I could fine the holy grail in this.
Here are some details about the history of the problem.
The car is a 2000 Accent 1.5 with a LPG system built in just after the first owner bought the car. It has been running fine (however I have had quite a large number of repairs at the Hyundai dealer in town). About 2 months ago the car did not start and the dealer checked the ECU. It gave a fault code about the immobilizer and about the crank shaft sensor. Replacing the crank shaft sensor got rid of the problem and the car started fine again.
Recently the LPG system started to give some troubles, after about 15 minutes of driving the car started to stutter and the only solution to get rid of the stutter, was to switch over to normal fuel and then after about 1 minute, switch back to LPG. When I did that, the problem went away for the rest of the trip. This lasted for about 14 days, then the car did not start aymore. I tried a couple of times, but the left it for the day.
The next day the car started just fine, but I went to the dealer anyway to let them check the car. When I parked at the dealer, the car could run stationary for about 10 seconds and then just turn off (f I recall correctly: on LPG as well as gasoline, but I'm not sure, the car always starts on gasonline and the swtiches to LPG later). Starting it did gave the same result. It went for a while and then switched off again.
A few days later the dealer called with the following disturbing message:
They could not give me any fault code because their scan units could not connect with the motor management module. We know that reading the computer worked fine before (2 months ago). But besides this problem: the car had NOT started at all anymore.
They assumed the immobilizer could be the problem because I reported about this fault code before. I went to a used-parts shop and bought a new transponder module which is fitted around the lock at the steering wheel, to see if that would help, but the problem remained.
Then they left the car for 2 weeks inside the shop to see if it would come up again, but that didn't work either. The car has not started ever since. They noticed that the immobilizer light which is on the dashboard did not light anymore either. I can remember from before, that this light SHOULD come on, stay on for a couple of seconds and then go off again, but now it always remained off.
Next guess was to replace the ECU alltogether. I bought a replacement ECU for the same model/enigine. They replaced the ECU, but ... nothing ... no immobilizer light, and this ECU was not readable by the scan hardware/software either.
They left me with the car suggesting to take out the LPG system as this was not built in by the Hyundai factory and could cause problems to the system, but this would add an additional 250 Euro to the bill, and it could just as well not be the cause of the problem.
Today I spent some time in the car, taking out and plugging in all kinds of connectors and stripping the ECU (i have 2 of them now anyway ) from its cover, making it easier to put a multi-meter on the pins of the ECU itself. I also bought a ELM327 compatible ECU scanner. I tested that device on a VW Passat 2000, in which it works, but in my car it does not work, as suspected, because at the dealer it did not work either.
...
So that's it. The car died and everything 'works' except that it won't start. The left panel of the dash is off so I can see all wires and I fiddled them around but it does not change anything. I took the ECU units home, there are 2 under the dash: one Kefico 9030930078F (it also says 197216 and 39110-22545 and LCE0I53), the other one is a 09385519 Delphi Delco Electronics Systems Dana (it also says: *86DANALM20300251*, there is an additional Necam sticker (the LPG system manufacturer) 238916-003 Hyundai MTG4EB, Delco ITM-6U). Maybe I can check if does anything on the ELM327 cable if I just put 12V on it. Or does anyone have a clue what else I can try?
By the way, the 'check engine light' does not go on either, but I can remember from the past that one of the ECU error codes reported that this actaul light in the dash was faulty...
I hope someone can tell me where I could fine the holy grail in this.
#2
Does the 2000 Hyundai Accent even have a fuel cut off inertia switch
Hi
I just bought a Hyundai Accent 2000, it starts but wont crank over, I suspect it may have been involved in a small collision as the bumper was replaced and repainted.
This being a possibility, I am looking for the inertia switch that cuts off the fuel, in the case of an accident. Does anyone know where this switch is located, or even if there is one in this 2000 model?
I have checked for spark plug problems, there is spark.
There may be a fuel blockage issue, which led me to believe perhaps the inertia switch for the fuel cut off was activated and the fuel supply was cut off.
It may also be that the coils need replacing... but I would like to investigate whether it may be a fuel cut off switch first, before I start throwing money at it.
Any help will be appreciated
Thank You
Gloria
I just bought a Hyundai Accent 2000, it starts but wont crank over, I suspect it may have been involved in a small collision as the bumper was replaced and repainted.
This being a possibility, I am looking for the inertia switch that cuts off the fuel, in the case of an accident. Does anyone know where this switch is located, or even if there is one in this 2000 model?
I have checked for spark plug problems, there is spark.
There may be a fuel blockage issue, which led me to believe perhaps the inertia switch for the fuel cut off was activated and the fuel supply was cut off.
It may also be that the coils need replacing... but I would like to investigate whether it may be a fuel cut off switch first, before I start throwing money at it.
Any help will be appreciated
Thank You
Gloria
#3
Which bumper, front or rear ?
If front, unlikely related
Rear bumper, yes, could be a problem back there .
There is no fuel cut off sw on that model.
So we are on the same page,
When we go to start the engine the starter motor cranks the engine over.
When it fires up ,it has started running.
The coils you are possibly referring to are responsible for producing the spark needed . You already have spark, so the coils appear to be working.
The next thing to do is confirm fuel is getting to the cyls. This can be done either by removing one of the spark plugs and see if it is wet. If it is ,fuel is getting to the cyls.
Another way is to spray a little carb /choke cleaner (closest to gasoline) (which you probably do not have) into the intake and if the engine attempts to start ,it has a fuel delivery problem.
If both of those two requirements are present, my next question is; if and when was the timing belt replaced?
If front, unlikely related
Rear bumper, yes, could be a problem back there .
There is no fuel cut off sw on that model.
So we are on the same page,
When we go to start the engine the starter motor cranks the engine over.
When it fires up ,it has started running.
The coils you are possibly referring to are responsible for producing the spark needed . You already have spark, so the coils appear to be working.
The next thing to do is confirm fuel is getting to the cyls. This can be done either by removing one of the spark plugs and see if it is wet. If it is ,fuel is getting to the cyls.
Another way is to spray a little carb /choke cleaner (closest to gasoline) (which you probably do not have) into the intake and if the engine attempts to start ,it has a fuel delivery problem.
If both of those two requirements are present, my next question is; if and when was the timing belt replaced?
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