I have a 2006 Limited with the standard radio. The bass seems to be a little weak. Has anyone replaced their speakers and gotten an improvement in the sound?

 

wsteinhauer...I'm sorry I just found this site, I could've helped you out a long time ago. I replaced my door speakers with Infinity Kappa Series 62.7i two way coaxials in both front and rear doors. The soundstage improved (IMO) and the center channel became less prevelant than with the factory speakers. I left the factory tweeters in as well as the center channel. However, this will improve the sound of your music from the mid-range on up. This solution will not improve your bass. The factory sub is a pretty decent one, but it has trouble with the really low notes. The only way you can improve that is to install an aftermarket sub. I did that in my Azera, you can check the pics at http://www.carspace.com/allmet33

If you don't want to go with Infinity Kappa series speakers, another good option would be the JBL GTO series. The reason I throw these out there is the factory speakers are 2 ohm speakers and the Kappas and GTO's are as well. I know there are a couple other brands that make a 2 ohm speaker, but they are hard to find.

 

Thanks for the info.

What is brand and model is the receiver in your Azera? I went to your carspace site but couldn't make out the name.

 

"Pioneer FH-P4200MP double DIN unit, Infinity Kappa 62.7i speakers in front & rear doors. I currently have a Phoenix Gold Xenon 600.1 amp pushing an Alpine Type-R sub, but I'm in the process of building a new sub enclosure/amp rack. I'll be using the same amp, but the new sub is a Pioneer TS-W2502SPL capable of handling 800 watts rms."

From: http://www.hyundai-forums.com/2006-H...tem-cid585.htm

 

dude sorry but how the f**k did you get stereo out of there. i cant figure it out. im on a deadline and i need the system done bysaturday so i need your help as soon as possible.

 

Getting the factory stereo out is actually easier than you would think...once you figure out where all the screws are.

Okay...

First...carefully remove the faux wood strip that goes along the top of the dash above the stereo. You should see screws behind it...remove all of them.

After that, slide your fingers along the bottom of the console, below the storage compartment located below the climate controls...you should feel two holes, there are screws in them that need to be removed. A stubby philips head will do the trick.

Then, pull the fuse panel cover and you'll see a screw located towards the bottom...remove that.

Now, you'll need to locate the two screws that hold the panel under the steering wheel column in place, remove those and carefully pull the panel down (it does not need to be removed completely).

Once you've pulled it down, there is one more screw located below the ignition that needs to come out (that's right, you had to lower that whole panel just to get to that one screw).

Now that all the screws are out, you should be able to pull the stereo console cover away from the dash. Be careful as there are harnesses connected to the clock, humidity detector, hazard light button and climate controls that need to be disconnected.

Once disconnected...you now have access to the stereo. You'll notice 4 screws holding the unit in place, once you remove those...it's a matter of sliding it out, disonnecting the wire harness and antenna.

What I found to ease the install of the new stereo is to splice the aftermarket stereo's wire harness to the wire harness adapter first (just a matter of matching colors up). Then, plug the connected harnesses into the factory harness, then plug the stereo in and don't forget the antenna. Turn your car on and make sure everything comes on the way it's supposed to and if it does, then I will normally take the stereo out, wrap the wires with electrical tape (from plug to plug) and then reinstall the stereo and secure it. After that's done...just put all the dash panel screws back in in reverse order. Word of note, there's a rubber ring around the ignition hole, remove that and you'll be able to line the hole up with the ignition. Once you've popped the panel back in place, install the rubber ring and THEN secure the panel.

If you have any more questions or need any more assistance...let me know.

Hope this is helpful!!!

 

thanks alot man. that actually helped alot lol. alright one more question. where did your run the wires through. i took out the stereo and sawtherewas this funnel type of thing that the wires where in running behind the airbag on the passenger side. i didnt exactly want to mess with that knowing that the airbag might go off when i turn on the car. so it would be a big help again if u gave some places to run the wires through.
i have a flipscreen the brain is most likely going under the passenger seat.
one amp (going in the trunk)
2 subwoofers (obviously in the trunk)
capacitor (in the trunk)
stock speakers so that means there gonna connect through the headunit
i need help wiring all those wires plus the power cable.
since the brain is going under the passenger seat and the passenger seat is electric i dont need to cut the carpet that much.
i was hoping to follow the electrical wires from the seat to the dashto give me a route for the wires to connect to the headunit.
also how do you remove thepanels under the door where u step on when u get in if i get that ill jus run the wires through there.

 

No problem man. You sure there's no place behind or under the dash that you can secure the brains to make it easier???

Well...here is what I did with my system.

As far as the power wire for the amp, I drilled ahole through the firewalldown by the brake pedal. The power wire, I ran under the carpet down the driver's side of the car. I lifted up the door sills and the clips that hold the carpet in place and threaded it all the way to the back that way. Once you get it to the side panely by the rear seats...it's pretty easy.

The RCA cables...I ran those under the center console. I actually took the driver's seat out to do this just to make it easier. Just make sure you remember all the connections you undid so you can put them all back together when you put the seat back in. Anyway...with everything out of the center console, there's a panel in the bottom you can pull up and undo the screws that hold it down. You don't have to take it all the way up to run the cables under the carpet (between the rear of the console and the front of the rear seat). Once the cables are at the back seat...done deal.

You don't have to worry about the airbag deploying as long as you're careful.

The ground cable from the amp...pull the rear seat out and grind a spot down to bare metal, then run a self tapping metal screw and you'll be good.

How many watts is the amp you're running for your subs? If it's 500 watts or less (RMS) then you don't really need a capacitor.

To remove the door sill covers...just use a flat tip screwdriver, slide it underneath and carefully pry them up. They pop out of clips that hold them in place.

As far as your door speakers go...by going with an aftermarket head unit, you would really want to consider replacing at least the door speakers to handle the extra power thats will be kicked out. The factory speakers will do fine for a while as long as your sound levels are moderate, but cranking it up regularly...you'll soon lead those speakers to a short life. LOL

If you get around to changing them (it's really simple), go with speakers that run a 2 ohm impedence. Two that I know of are Infinity Kappa Series and JBL GTI Series. Just a lil FYI.

I hope all of this info helps you out, if you have any other questions or concerns...let me know.

Good luck!!!

 

thanks man. big help
aight this is the updated info for now:
for the power wire i didnt drill a hole on the firewall instead i found a a tube like thing(which had a sh*t load of wires and i though thatwould be a good place)and drilled through it and ran the wire.
the wire ended up coming out from the bottom of the dash from the passenger side.
i put the brain in the trunk cause i ordered the wires (because the last ones were messes up) and they ran all the way to the trunk so that was a good idea at the time.
the amp is a 1200 watt 2 chanel amp so yea i needed a cap lol.
the rest of the wires i ran through the right side of the car and got to the end which was when i found out i need to remove the WHOLE back seat section jus to get to the screw that held the panel down lol.
but the worst news is that i found out that there is something wrong with my brain it works but doesnt let the speakers work.
i have a kenwood kvt-717dvd t.v. and because the brain doesnt work properly the amp wont turn on because i connected the remote wire to the electric antenna wirewhich connects to the brain.
in the back of the brain their is a fuse port but im not sure if i should put a fuse their because i dont remember if their was one before. so i was wondering if u suggest me putting a fuse there. or maybe give me some suggestions on what might be wrong with it.
thanks.

 

Well...the cap won't hurt either way. 1200 watts, huh? It's unlikely it's 1200 watts x 2 RMS...not unless you paid a S#!* load of money for it.

I'm pretty sure it's not the brain of your head unit that's not allowing the speakers to come on. Is it the Scosche wiring harness you got? If so, call them and ask to speak to one of the techs. Let them know what is happening and ask them to check and see what the wire order in the harness is supposed to be. It could be that you ended up with one of the older ones that was put together incorrectly and they would be able to tell you which wires should be in which locations (this is the problem I had when i first put mine in). After 3 different harnesses...we figured it out and they sent me one that was set up correctly.

If there is a fuse port, then you would most likely need a fuse in there. So that too could be your problem as the brain isn't getting the power it needs. If you have the owner's manual for it, then you can find out what size fuse to put in there usually it's gonna be a 5 or 10 amp fuse.