Hi.
I just got a 07' Azera 3.8. This is the first time to change enigne oil. I would like to change by myself. But Icouldn'tfindanowner's manual. My kids thrown itoutI think.

So, how muchoildo Iput in for 3.8 engine?
What kinds ofoil and filterare the best?
Which tools do I need?
Does the jobneed any sepecialdifficulties?

I usedtochangemotor oil by myshelftoother cars like dakota, Monte, Taurrus, and Nissian.
But the korean car is the firsttime. Would you let me know what I need?

Thanks.

 

How many miles on your car?

I waited to long at 3,500 miles.
Had the old oil analysized and it was really filthy, so should have changedit earlier.

For the oil, I like Mobil 1. Five quarts or slightly more.

Be sure and use 5W-20 no matter which oil you prefer.

Mobil 1 at Walmart in a five quart jug is about $22. Buy also a one quart container.

Oil filter is either a Fram 9999 or better yet, a Purolatoror less
expensive Proline PPL-35610 (Pep Boys)cartridge filter,$6.
Both the Proline and the Purolatorare exactly identical and made in India.

Trick is to get the screw-on filter cap tight enough so it will not leak.
Seeps ever so slightly and may not do that for some time.

Plastic top says tighten to 26 nm which is18 ft/lb. Be sure to use both new "O" rings.

I have a new specialty tool on the way to tighten up
the plastic top without scratching or damaging it.

Let us know howeverything turns out.

Good luck.

 

I haven't seen thoes kinds of oil filter. I will try on this weekend.

Thanks a lot.

 

I have seen the Fram CH999 oil filter in stores, but I got on Hyundai's tech site, and there is a TSB about using aftermarket filters, and how they may cause uneven oil pressure in the engine. I am used to using aftermarket filters, but I thik this time I may stay with the Hyundai filter, just in case.

 

Have you examined any cartridge oil filters?

If you believe that B/S thatis being put out on their site, I've
got some ocean-front property in Arizona I'd like to sell you cheap. [8D]

That TSB applies to allmodels, but not necessarily Azeras with the cartridge type filters.
It's dated prior to the introduction of the cartridge type filteron the Lambda engines.

There's no way thatany oil filter cartridgecan cause "unevenoil pressure in the engine."

 

TSB's are for maintenance and management personel, which reflect problems that occurwith theircars in the field. This info is also avaiable to consumers. Considering TSB's as nothing but B.S. must mean that you have more info and insighton these problems that the car companies.Carmakers don't want any TSB's, but no one can make a perfect car. I think I will pass on the Arizona land

 

Speaking of oil changes, does anyone know the reason for the "crush washer" that is to be replaced at every oil change? In the past, I have simply inserted a nylon washer which has always worked great.

 

if you want to change the oil yourself just go to the dealer and buy yourself and oil filter. TSBs are there for a reason, aftermarker oil filter does cause some hyundai engines make lifter noise.

 

OK, I just changed the oil and filter in my Azera. It had 4200 miles on it. The oil wasn't all that dirty, but I couldn't wait to get rid of the 5W-20 and get some 10W-30 into it. It runs just slightly quieter with the slightly thicker oil. I'm going to be doing 5K oil changes on the 5's and 10's. The oil I just put in is actually going to go for about 5.8K. I also installed a 1/4 turn drain valve in place of the drain plug to make all future oil changes a snap.

Here's some helpful info for anyone else who wants to change their own.

1. The oil filter housing is accessed from the top of the engine by removing the decorative cover which is held on by 6 bolts/nuts. Facing the engine, the filter housing cover is a domed round plastic cap about 4" in diameter slightly to the right of center.

2. Note carefully that there's a white painted "match" mark somewhere on the more exposed side of the filter housing. When you twist the cap back on, you'll want to make sure you turn it far enough to get those marks to line up again. If your car doesn't have such an alignment mark, make one yourself.

3. There is apparently a special tool for removing the filter cap sold by Hyundai, but I was able to easily twist mine off by hand. Before starting to remove the cap, wrap rags around the housing below the cap to catch any oil that might drip during cartridge lift-out. Also, have a container of some sort handy into which you can lift the cartridge without trailing it across the top of the engine. It is easy to avoid dripping any oil anywhere.

4. Change the filter BEFORE draining the oil out of the pan to enable the oil trapped in the housing to drain into the pan before the pan is emptied.

5. The cap takes several turns to get it off. When you lift it off, the filter will come with it since the filter is mounted on a hollow spindle that's attached to the cap and extends out of the bottom end of the filter a few inches. Once out of the housing, the old filter pulls straight off the spindle.

6. There are four o-rings to concern yourself with. They come with the replacement filter. Two are already installed inside the ends of the filter, there's one about 1/2" in diameter that can be found on the end of the spindle, and a large one the diameter of the cap seals the cap to the housing. The small one on the end of the spindle is sorta hard to get off and replace. Squeeze the o-ring, press it one direction, and get a nail under the loose part to help pry it off. Before putting on the new one, oil it to help it slip over the end of the spindle and back into its groove. The larger one is much easier to replace. Oil it too.

7. Before placing the new cartridge onto the spindle, oil the two o-rings inside the ends of the filter. This will help them slip into place. Push it on as far is it will go.

8. I've read how several people have had problems getting the cap cinched back down properly. That's because they fail to bathe the large o-ring with oil AND the inner surface of the housing where the o-ring will be required to twist/slide into place as the cap is screwed down. Trying to put the cap on with the o-ring and housing inner surface dry will be almost impossible, will probably damage the o-ring, and will most likely leak. Twist the cap/filter assembly down till it bottoms out on the housing, and the white marks are aligned.

8. Once that's done, drain your oil and refill as you would any other car. It holds 6 quarts. Don't forget to remove the rag from around the filter housing before replacing the decorative engine cover.

Regards, Gary in Sandy Eggo

 

I assume you are asking about the washer used to seal the oil pan drain plug. The nylon washers you are using are nothing but a newer, cheaper alternative to the old copper crush washers. Both are intended for a single use. The plastic washers are probably more tolerant of over torqueing than the copper type. The copper washers can take more heat, but that's not an issue with drain plug applications. I prefer the newer blue nylon washers with raised concentric ribs. You can also buy a reuseable washer that has a rubber ring incorporated into it. I have found these last for 2, maybe 3 uses. For the same money you can buy a gob of nylon washers. If the nylon washers are working for you, stick to them.