Go to http://www.hmaservice.com. You'll have to register (free).
There is a lot of information on this site. It is a Hyundai website.

OIL AND FILTER


• Prolonged and repeated contact with mineral oil will result in the removal of natural fats from the skin, leading to dryness, irritation and dermatitis. In addition, used engine oil contains potentially harmful contaminants which may cause skin cancer.
• Exercise caution in order to minimize the length and frequency of contact of your skin to used oil. Wear protective clothing and gloves. Wash your skin thoroughly with soap and water, or use water-less hand cleaner, to remove any used engine oil. Do not use gasoline, thinners, or solvents.
• In order to preserve the environment, used oil and used oil filter must be disposed of only at designated disposal sites.

1. Park the car on level ground.
Start the engine and let it warm up.
2. Turn the engine off and open the hood.
Remove the engine cover.
3. Wait for 5 minutes after loosening the oil filter cap by turning it counterclockwise with SST(09263-3C100) to drain well the oil in the oil filter.


4. Drain the engine oil.
A. Remove the oil filler cap.
B. After lifting the car, remove the oil drain plug and drain the oil into a container.

5. Replace oil filter.
A. Disconnect the oil filter cap from oil filter body.
B. Remove the oil filter element.
C. Check and clean the oil filter installation surface.
D. Check the part number of the new oil filter is same as old one.
E. Install new oil filter element(A) and two new O-rings(B).


F. Apply clean engine oil to the new O-rings.
Lightly screw the oil filter cap into place, and tighten it until the O-ring contacts the seat.
G. Finally tighten it again by specified tightening torque.

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Tightening torque
24.50Nm (2.5kgf.m, 18.08lb-ft)
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6. Refill with engine oil.
A. Install the oil drain plug with a new gasket.

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Tightening torque
34.3 ~ 44.1Nm (3.5 ~ 4.5kgf.m, 25.3 ~ 32.5lb-ft)
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B. Fill with fresh engine oil, after removing the engine oil level gauge.

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Capacity
When replacing a short engine or a block assembly :
6.0L(6.34U.S.qts,5.28lmp.qts)
When replacing an oil pan only :
5.5L(5.81U.S.qts,4.84lmp.qts)
Drain and refill : 5.2L(5.49U.S.qts,4.58lmp.qts)
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C. Install the oil filler cap and oil level gauge.

7. Start the engine and check to be sure no oil is leaking from the drain plug or oil filter.
8. Recheck engine oil level.

 

A couple of comments:

Regarding the oil filter TSB, that covered problems with oil filters on Hyundais that do *not* use the cartridge-style filter. Without looking it up again, I don't think it applies to Hyundais with cartridge filters. The basic problem, I think, is that the filters for Hyundai and Honda cars had the same mounting base, but the Honda bypass valve pressure is 14-18 psi, while the Hyundai bypass pressure is 12-15. The result is that Hyundais could get into an oil starvation situation if the Honda filter was used. This could happen one of two ways: 1) a lube technician doesn't hae the right filter in stock for a Hyundai and uses the one for a Honda, or 2) the oil filter company makes a mistake and builds their filters with the Honda specs and recommends it for Hyundai applications. From what I've read on the internet, I think Fram may have done this; among Elantra owners Fram is avoided at all costs. Wix, Purolator, and of course OEM are the preferred filters on the Elantra forums.

The whole reason the TSB was issued is that several cars developed knocking engines when using aftermarket filters. It isn't B.S.; it really happened. That's why Hyundai went through the expense of putting out a TSB.


As far as using a Fram element on a cartridge-style filter, I don't know anything about that, but considering the bypass valve was the problem, and with a cartridge filter the bypass valve is not changed out, just the element is, I don't see why using a Fram filter would be a problem. Just make sure you use a filter that is designed for Hyundai.


The reason it is recommended to replace the crush washer each time the oil is changed is, well, the washer is crushed when it is intalled! Get a new washer, and compare it with the washer on your car when you change the oil. The difference is obvious; the used one is much thinner and has a larger diameter. The whole point of the washer is to make sure there is a good seal and that the drain plug doesn't back out. Why take a chance by not replacing a part that costs just a few cents? (My Hyundai dealer charges $6 for an OEM filter and throws in the crush washer for free.)

 

Regarding the B/S comment, I meant that it was whenapplied to the late Sonatas and Azeras.
These models should not have been included, andHyundais TSB
only applies to models that still use the spin-on type filters.

The next time you change yourcartridge-style filter, look closely at that center piece that
you're installing the smaller of the two "O" rings on and notice the center "check valve."
That partis what controls the drain back and pressures within the canister.
It matters not about who makes the cartridge. I would think that whether the filter is for an
Azera or a Honda, just so long as it fit the spindle properly and within the cartridge housing.

In others words, those who maintain that the cartridge itself controls the pressures
and the drainback are smoken some bad grass. That is just not so McGee!