Could someone give me a link to buy a wrench for the 3.8L 2007 Azera.1800 miles so far and all is well.Cold start up kinda sucks with what I think is a momentary lapse of oil due to filter being an upright style.This ismy first cartridge oil filter car.I would love your opinion on this style and Im going with Castrol 5W-30.Thanks Very Much!

 

There's a URL mentioned in this thread:

https://www.hyundaiforum.com/m_11564/tm.htm

 

This is thewrench I found to work wellfor me, and
it's priced the lowest of all I saw on the internet.
Less than Twenty dollars including shipping.

Orderedone day and receivedin Southern Californiathe next.
Excellent service IMHO.

http://www.monstronix.com/asshy8815-p-331266.html

 

You really don't need a wrench to remove and replace the oil filter housing cap. It's easily accomplished by hand. The key to proper cap installation is to ensure ALL o-rings are lubricated, and that the smooth upper inner surface of the housing is also well oiled before screwing the cap (and filter) back on. The following is a step-by-step procedure you can use to change your oil and filter.

OK, I just changed the oil and filter in my Azera. It had 4200 miles on it. The oil wasn't all that dirty, but I couldn't wait to get rid of the 5W-20 and get some 10W-30 into it. It runs just slightly quieter with the slightly thicker oil. I'm going to be doing 5K oil changes on the 5's and 10's. The oil I just put in is actually going to go for about 5.8K. I also installed a 1/4 turn drain valve in place of the drain plug to make all future oil changes a snap.

Here's some helpful info for anyone else who wants to change their own.

1. The oil filter housing is accessed from the top of the engine by removing the decorative cover which is held on by 6 bolts/nuts. Facing the engine, the filter housing cover is a domed round plastic cap about 4" in diameter slightly to the right of center.

2. Note carefully that there's a white painted "match" mark somewhere on the more exposed side of the filter housing. When you twist the cap back on, you'll want to make sure you turn it far enough to get those marks to line up again. If your car doesn't have such an alignment mark, make one yourself.

3. There is apparently a special tool for removing the filter cap sold by Hyundai, but I was able to easily twist mine off by hand. Before starting to remove the cap, wrap rags around the housing below the cap to catch any oil that might drip during cartridge lift-out. Also, have a container of some sort handy into which you can lift the cartridge without trailing it across the top of the engine. It is easy to avoid dripping any oil anywhere.

4. Change the filter BEFORE draining the oil out of the pan to enable the oil trapped in the housing to drain into the pan before the pan is emptied.

5. The cap takes several turns to get it off. When you lift it off, the filter will come with it since the filter is mounted on a hollow spindle that's attached to the cap and extends out of the bottom end of the filter a few inches. Once out of the housing, the old filter pulls straight off the spindle.

6. There are four o-rings to concern yourself with. They come with the replacement filter. Two are already installed inside the ends of the filter, there's one about 1/2" in diameter that can be found on the end of the spindle, and a large one the diameter of the cap seals the cap to the housing. The small one on the end of the spindle is sorta hard to get off and replace. Squeeze the o-ring, press it one direction, and get a nail under the loose part to help pry it off. Before putting on the new one, oil it to help it slip over the end of the spindle and back into its groove. The larger one is much easier to replace. Oil it too.

7. Before placing the new cartridge onto the spindle, oil the two o-rings inside the ends of the filter. This will help them slip into place. Push it on as far is it will go.

8. I've read how several people have had problems getting the cap cinched back down properly. That's because they fail to bathe the large o-ring with oil AND the inner surface of the housing where the o-ring will be required to twist/slide into place as the cap is screwed down. Trying to put the cap on with the o-ring and housing inner surface dry will be almost impossible, will probably damage the o-ring, and will most likely leak. Twist the cap/filter assembly down till it bottoms out on the housing, and the white marks are aligned.

8. Once that's done, drain your oil and refill as you would any other car. It hol

 

YOU GUYS ROCK!Thanks a Million toGary from Sandy Eggo-LOL The step by step info was very cool.Im-Out

 

Back to the original comment/question regarding startup. Lemme guess. When you start your engine, it races up to 2000 rpm, tapping for several seconds, before starting to slow down.

Regarding the tapping on startup, it has nothing to do with the oil filtration system. It has to do with the fact that this engine took a GIANT step backward in order to use its overhead cam(s), and doesn't utilize hydraulic tappets. What you're hearing is the valve clearance before the engine's had time to warm up and close down the gap. Mine does it a little, but it's not all that loud, and it goes away after about five minutes of engine warmup.

Regarding the racing engine, which is REALLY annoying since everyone knows a just started cold engine should run at low rpms for several seconds until oil's circulating well, here's how I'm handling that. I step on the brake and turn the ignition switch to run, then shift the transmission into neutral before turning the key to start. I then place my left hand onto the shifter, and start the engine. The instant I let go of the key, I pull the transmission into drive. This pulls the rpm back down under 1000 rpm before it has a chance to get to 2000 rpm. I just hope it's not harming the transmission in any way. I'll be checking with the dealer to see if there's anything they can do to reduce the startup engine speed to no more than 1000 rpm.

 

^^^ I can't condone the above suggestion. It is at best, a procedure that only masks the symptom. It does not fix the actual problem andis just asking for trouble. If you have engine noise at startup then you probably have the wrong (too thick) viscosity oil in the engine for the climate temperature. The oil is too thick to get up to the top of the engine quickly. Running an engine at low RPMs is not a good idea when the engine is cold. It is designed to have a raised RPM for a short period of time to help the engine warm up correctly.

Racing engines start up totally differently than street cars. They spin the motor with the starter while the ignition system is turned off until it builds oil pressure and then they turn on the ignition system which starts the engine. Racing enginesdo not start at low RPMs at all.

 

The only problem, as I perceive it, is that NO oil lubricated recriprocating engine should be allowed to rev up immediately on startup. Most cars have a slightly higher rpm (1000-1200) on cold startup, but this is to aid in keeping the engine running during the first several seconds. Lubrication requirements rise quickly as rpm is increased. Like I said earlier, I'm going to ask the dealer if the startup rpm can be set lower.

Early gasoline and kerosene fueled recriprocating engines were lubricated with a drip oiler that would drop 2-3 drops of oil onto the slow moving piston, and this was completely adequate because the operating speed was 60-120 rpm. Such lubrication would be totally inadequate today, even at today's 600-750 warmed up engine idle speed. The point being, until the oil's flowing nicely past the journal bearings and being thrown onto the cylinder walls, higher rpm's should be avoided.

Thick or thin, the oil is going to get to the moving parts at the same rate since the oil pump is a positive displacement pump with a relief set anywhere between 60 & 90 psi. Residual oil provides the needed lubrication for the first few seconds after a cold start. The high rpm's are to be avoided during this time.

It's true that you'll be able to "rev" your engine higher earlier with a thinner base oil, but that's usually at the expense of metal-to-metal separation at normal operating temperatures.

Racing engines have cams that won't support low rpm's. Racing engines will also have to be rebuilt following a 500 mile race.

 

My advice about using the wrong oil viscosity comes straight from the Hyundai service manuals. That's not my opinion, it's Hyundai fact: http://www.hmaservice.com/
Another issue with noise at startup with the 3.8L engines is the Timing Chain Tensioner. There is a TSB about it. If you are getting that noise, it might be that and not a oil related problem. Again, your startup procedure (putting it in gear right away) does not solve the problem and is bad advice. Go to the dealer and have them check the Timing Chain Tensioner.

 

If you are such an expert on cars, why can't YOU set the rpm lower yourself?

Yes, high rpms (2000-up). 1200-1500 startup rpm is not going to hurt your engine.

Thick oil when cold creates higher pressure causing the bypass to open sooner where thinner oil when cold will flow easier yo to the top of the engine without opening the bypass.

Like I said above: Yes, high rpms (2000-up). 1200-1500 startup rpm is not going to hurt your engine.

Incorrect. Thinner oil when cold will flow to the areas quicker to provide protection.
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