2002 Elantra GT Manual Trans Slippage
#1
2002 Elantra GT Manual Trans Slippage
I have a 2002 Elantra GT manual transmission.
Since 2002 I've gone thru 3 clutches. The last one 4 months ago.
Now my transmission is starting to slip again. The clutch was adjusted, but I'm still having slippage. I notice that
when I first drive the car, it shifts fine, but after driving a while the symptoms of "slipping" start again. When I had the clutch replaced,
would the mechanics have replaced the fluid anyway?
Since 2002 I've gone thru 3 clutches. The last one 4 months ago.
Now my transmission is starting to slip again. The clutch was adjusted, but I'm still having slippage. I notice that
when I first drive the car, it shifts fine, but after driving a while the symptoms of "slipping" start again. When I had the clutch replaced,
would the mechanics have replaced the fluid anyway?
Last edited by JonBoy35; 04-17-2011 at 09:32 PM.
#2
You need to evaluate your left foot / right foot co-ordination ? You're not whizing the motor and slowly hooking up the clutch form a stop or revving motor between shifts while letting off pedal when car already rolling ??
Age now and most dealer/customer maintance habits for hydraulic clutch release system,, likely the hydraulic resevoir is full of black fluid and mud..
This black mud may have clogged the restrictor in the slave (stupid Hyundai added part).. so you release clutch with high flow fluid, then the fluid returns slowly through the restrictor hole while clutch slips the whole time,, or slave is pumped up, and wont fully release...
For fun.. stomp the clutch pedal with with your foot rapdily, and see it the pedal gets hard to where you cannot stand it to make it move.. I did that to a customer car.. slave pumped out and fluid would not return.. pedal hard as a rock... I would venture replace the slave and master for age and rotten fluid/corrossion/mud.. install new parts, upgrade to DOT-4 for fluid, and before you assemble completely, take the hose off the slave, remove the valve and spring,, throw them 2 pieces away.
Fun fact -- Toyota FWD with 337,000 this week,,,,,,,,,,,, you ready ---------- it still on the factory installed clutch assembly... replaced slave maybe 2yr ago, clutch master still original.. I flush when fluid change color from yellow to green/brown.
Age now and most dealer/customer maintance habits for hydraulic clutch release system,, likely the hydraulic resevoir is full of black fluid and mud..
This black mud may have clogged the restrictor in the slave (stupid Hyundai added part).. so you release clutch with high flow fluid, then the fluid returns slowly through the restrictor hole while clutch slips the whole time,, or slave is pumped up, and wont fully release...
For fun.. stomp the clutch pedal with with your foot rapdily, and see it the pedal gets hard to where you cannot stand it to make it move.. I did that to a customer car.. slave pumped out and fluid would not return.. pedal hard as a rock... I would venture replace the slave and master for age and rotten fluid/corrossion/mud.. install new parts, upgrade to DOT-4 for fluid, and before you assemble completely, take the hose off the slave, remove the valve and spring,, throw them 2 pieces away.
Fun fact -- Toyota FWD with 337,000 this week,,,,,,,,,,,, you ready ---------- it still on the factory installed clutch assembly... replaced slave maybe 2yr ago, clutch master still original.. I flush when fluid change color from yellow to green/brown.
#3
I agree - it is very important to periodically flush the clutch fluid. I do mine every 2 or 3 years - only takes about 10 minutes. Funny, but I always notice "easier" shifting for a few days after a clutch flush.
Not a bad idea to flush the brake fluid also. Some recommend every 2 years, but I think every 3 or 4 should be fine for normal driving. Takes about 1 to 1 1/2 hrs depending on how you lift the car.
I've never had to replace a clutch on any car, and my first manual shift was a 1968 Firebird that I bought new. I have had to replace a master cylinder, and rebuild a slave a couple of times, but that was on a 1979 Corolla I drove for 22 years. Still had the original clutch when I sold it.
Not a bad idea to flush the brake fluid also. Some recommend every 2 years, but I think every 3 or 4 should be fine for normal driving. Takes about 1 to 1 1/2 hrs depending on how you lift the car.
I've never had to replace a clutch on any car, and my first manual shift was a 1968 Firebird that I bought new. I have had to replace a master cylinder, and rebuild a slave a couple of times, but that was on a 1979 Corolla I drove for 22 years. Still had the original clutch when I sold it.
#4
Wouldn't the mechanics have replaced the fluid. It's my understanding that to get to the transmission, you have to lift the engine out. Why is it that when I first drive the car it shifts great, then after driving a while it starts having "slippage" symptoms?
#5
We do not remove engine to do a clutch... not for the labor time we charge, too much stuff and wiring to be concerned with..
With car on rack, hang the engine with support, drop subframe, trans comes right out.. oil --> that be M/T oil to refill when re-installed.. clutch master ---> 2 bolts hold it to trans case, don't even need to unhook hydraulic line, just let it hang on its' hose.
With car on rack, hang the engine with support, drop subframe, trans comes right out.. oil --> that be M/T oil to refill when re-installed.. clutch master ---> 2 bolts hold it to trans case, don't even need to unhook hydraulic line, just let it hang on its' hose.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
thx1971
Hyundai Accent
2
04-08-2009 09:35 AM