2002 GLS Stalling Issues
#1
2002 GLS Stalling Issues
I have a 2002 GLS 5-speed that has 149980 miles. I purchased it used in 2012, and have put less than 10,000 miles on it. Anyway, on the last two mornings on my way to work, it has stalled without warning. The first time was around 50-55 MPH in fifth gear, when I started slowing down and losing power. I mashed the accelerator but got nothing, and eventually coasted to a stop. I tried to restart it several times to no avail. While on the phone with AAA, about 5-7 minutes after stalling, it started right up. I made it to work on time, and it was fine on the way home as well.
This morning, I left early, fully expecting it to stall again, and took back roads. About halfway through the 20-mile trip, at 50MPH (fortunately at 6AM out in the country) it stalled. Again, I coasted to a safe spot, and purposely waited 2-3 minutes before restarting. As before, I made it to work and back home again with no problems.
Does this sound like some kind of sensor issue? I have to wait until next week to get it into my trusted mechanic, but I'm just trying to get an idea of what may be going on.
This morning, I left early, fully expecting it to stall again, and took back roads. About halfway through the 20-mile trip, at 50MPH (fortunately at 6AM out in the country) it stalled. Again, I coasted to a safe spot, and purposely waited 2-3 minutes before restarting. As before, I made it to work and back home again with no problems.
Does this sound like some kind of sensor issue? I have to wait until next week to get it into my trusted mechanic, but I'm just trying to get an idea of what may be going on.
Last edited by NovaResource; 10-08-2013 at 01:51 PM. Reason: Made text more legible
#3
It hasn't been changed by me in the year and four months or so that I've owned it. I just drove it this morning and it was fine.
#4
We usually changed fuel filters at least once a year with other makes because condensation managed to find it's way into the fuel tank one way or another.
That was the reason I asked that question.
There could be many reasons for the engine to just quit and some of them can be quite difficult to find since they occur intermittently.
That was the reason I asked that question.
There could be many reasons for the engine to just quit and some of them can be quite difficult to find since they occur intermittently.
#5
UPDATE: I took my car into my mechanic. The computer had 6 codes stored (I forgot to mention that my check engine light had been perpetually on) they were:
P0113 IAT
P0121 PTS Sensor
P0325 Knock Sensor
P0335 Crank Sensor
P0451 Evap Sensor Pressure
P0455 Evap Large Leak
The light being on -- and me ignoring it -- made it less obvious when a true, car-stalling problem came up. This light had come on almost a year ago when the gas tank got below a certain level due to the evap issue, but, in my laziness, I never bothered to take it back to have the problem corrected. You know, like when you put electrical tape over the light so it will go away. )
Anyway, he went ahead and replaced the crank shaft sensor, and the check engine light is now extinguished. He told me bring it in when (or if) the light came on again as the tank level drops, and he would hopefully take care of it for good. I spent about $250, but my mechanic is one of the best on the planet, and I have peace of mind again, at least, until the next thing goes wrong.
I thought there would be more responses to the this thread, but still figured I would pass this info along to someone who may have a similar problem. Thanks for reading.
P0113 IAT
P0121 PTS Sensor
P0325 Knock Sensor
P0335 Crank Sensor
P0451 Evap Sensor Pressure
P0455 Evap Large Leak
The light being on -- and me ignoring it -- made it less obvious when a true, car-stalling problem came up. This light had come on almost a year ago when the gas tank got below a certain level due to the evap issue, but, in my laziness, I never bothered to take it back to have the problem corrected. You know, like when you put electrical tape over the light so it will go away. )
Anyway, he went ahead and replaced the crank shaft sensor, and the check engine light is now extinguished. He told me bring it in when (or if) the light came on again as the tank level drops, and he would hopefully take care of it for good. I spent about $250, but my mechanic is one of the best on the planet, and I have peace of mind again, at least, until the next thing goes wrong.
I thought there would be more responses to the this thread, but still figured I would pass this info along to someone who may have a similar problem. Thanks for reading.
Last edited by NovaResource; 10-08-2013 at 01:52 PM. Reason: Made text more legible
#7
Thanks for the info. I am picking up my daughter's 2001 Elantra from the Hyundai dealer today where it has been for the past ten days. It exhibits the same symptoms as yours but they are stumped. I replaced the crank sensor and the fuel pump (which had already been replaced in the Spring, but figured it was an aftermarket part and had failed). After each fix it runs perfectly until it stalls within 24 hours. No codes, so I m suspecting a fuel issue. Never know when it will strand us; already been towed twice. Hoping I can even get it home without stalling. Can't even sell the thing in this condition.
P.S. The green type is impossible to read. I had to copy it into Word and change it to black so I could read it.
P.S. The green type is impossible to read. I had to copy it into Word and change it to black so I could read it.
#9
Thanks for the info. I am picking up my daughter's 2001 Elantra from the Hyundai dealer today where it has been for the past ten days. It exhibits the same symptoms as yours but they are stumped. I replaced the crank sensor and the fuel pump (which had already been replaced in the Spring, but figured it was an aftermarket part and had failed). After each fix it runs perfectly until it stalls within 24 hours. No codes, so I m suspecting a fuel issue. Never know when it will strand us; already been towed twice. Hoping I can even get it home without stalling. Can't even sell the thing in this condition.
P.S. The green type is impossible to read. I had to copy it into Word and change it to black so I could read it.
P.S. The green type is impossible to read. I had to copy it into Word and change it to black so I could read it.
#10
Thanks for the info. I am picking up my daughter's 2001 Elantra from the Hyundai dealer today where it has been for the past ten days. It exhibits the same symptoms as yours but they are stumped. I replaced the crank sensor and the fuel pump (which had already been replaced in the Spring, but figured it was an aftermarket part and had failed). After each fix it runs perfectly until it stalls within 24 hours. No codes, so I m suspecting a fuel issue. Never know when it will strand us; already been towed twice. Hoping I can even get it home without stalling. Can't even sell the thing in this condition.
P.S. The green type is impossible to read. I had to copy it into Word and change it to black so I could read it.
P.S. The green type is impossible to read. I had to copy it into Word and change it to black so I could read it.
To further update: My 2002 has been running just fine. The check engine light was off for a while (it was still throwing an evap large leak, and throttle position sensor code, and my mechanic cleared them) but, like clockwork, as soon as my gas tank dropped to half a tank, the light came back on. I haven't had the time to get it back in to my mechanic, so I'm not worried about it for the moment. I should get it fixed, but I'll probably wait until my vacation because I only have one car. It sounds like the previous poster with the 2001 stalling issues is more involved than what I went through...my problem may just be a leaky gas cap for all I know.