I have been working on my 98 Elantra Wagon. (the M engine) since 3:00 pm yesterday. Obviously not going well! I bought this car in November and have already had the timing belt done, replaced the alternator and battery, 2 new tires and a radiator hose. I was hoping to get a few more months out of the car after the energy and money I put into it.

My car has lost a lot of power over the last 2 months (did I mention it has 185K miles). The mpg is still good (23-27), but I got more concerned over the past few days when its been taking longer to start. (takes about 4 seconds sometimes, instead of the usual 1-2 seconds)

I decided to do a compression test on each cylinder. The 2nd cylinder (1,2,3,4 from left to right when looking at the engine) spark plug boot was folded under instead of fitting flush like the others. Don't know if it was installed incorrectly or what, but the rubber flap was slightly melted at the fold. I have noticed that my car runs a bit hot, but I've had a slow leak in my coolant so I thought this might contribute.

At this point it seemed like a good idea to replace the plugs and wires. I started with the 2nd cylinder---took out the old plug and inspected, screwed in a Harbor Freight Compression tester (oh following the directions on the packaging I disconnected the wiring at the starter, a 3-pin flat connector) and cranked the engine about 4 times. I then installed the new plug, which I gapped at about 0.040. I re-connected the old plugs b/c I was thinking maybe the new plugs and some fuel injector cleaner will do the trick and I can return the plugs I bought. So then I moved on to the next plug (remove, compression test, new plug in, old wire on) and so on. All the cylinders tested within 10 psi of each other (170-180). The plugs had tan/gray crud on them, but it seemed like normal wear.

once I finished this I reconnected the wiring harness at the starter. When I put the key in and started it, it didn't sound good. The rpms were at the right spot 1.5, but then sunk a little below 1. I don't take too much note of what it usually idles at in park, but the engine didn't sound good so I cut it.

I freaked out and thought I may have inadvertently mixed up a wire on the wrong starter terminal. But I took a picture before hand and everything seemed to line up. Previously, I inspected the plugs for how they fit on the terminals so I checked to see that they were all fully connected. Started it again, still sounded bad. oh, and I smelt this gas/oil burning smell from somewhere in the engine compartment. I figure this is just from injectors spraying gas, but no spark to burn it.

So I move on to getting those new spark plug wires on. And then I start it and it sounds horrible. Pretty sure its pinging. Don't know if the ECM is taking a while to register the new plugs so I want to keep it running, but don't want to if something is wrong. I give it a touch of acceleration and the rpms go down! don't know what is up. but I realize I better stop. and that was about a half-hour ago.

PLease! if anyone has an idea what might be broke on my car and how to fix it, I would so so appreciate it. don't know what else to do.

 

Hard to say what's wrong. Maybe you didn't put the plugs in tight enough? Maybe you're using the wrong plugs? You need somebody with a little more experience. I'm pretty sure it's not too serious.

Did you check or change the timing belt?

 

For tightening the plugs, I used a torque wrench and set it to 190 / inch. that's about 15 lb/ ft.

After the initial engine starting, I checked the plugs when I replaced each wire. New ones look about the same size. It looked like the new plug was slightly longer (from the washer that sits flush against the engine to the furthers point forward of the plug where electricity is arched). But when I say longer I am talking 1mm, no more. Examining the plugs after the initial start I didn't see any sign of the pistons banging them.

I am concerned that the timing is screwed up. I've never adjusted the timing...that is not deliberatly. Last night may have been the first. I haven't checked or adjusted this before. I will probably try that next.

 

You didn't change the timing. You don't adjust timing on one of these cars, it's solid state ignition. You might have switched the spark plug wires.

 

I've read a lot in the Chilton's manual, but I haven't figured out the problem.

I am near positive (but who knows, maybe I'm wrong) that I matched the new wires with the existing matching connections. However, the way the plugs were matched with the cylinders and on the ignition coil (when the car was running) did not match the books specification. They say the pistons (L to R 1234) matched the coil hookups (top to bottom 4 -1 - 3 - 2), but I had the 1234 wires from plugs connected to (1 - 4 - 3 - 2). First I tried starting again (these dummy lights lit up...check engine, brake, battery, and oil) and it started but sounded horrible. So I assumed I goofed the plugs and I lined them up as in the book. The result was that the car stalled quickly and I haven't been able to start it since.

When the key is in the "on" position the Idle Speed Control (ISC) actuator was buzzing. It buzzes as long as the key is in the "on". don't know if this is normal b/c I don't usually listen under the hood when a key is in the "on" position.

Does anyone know if this is a sign that the ISC is damaged and is preventing my car from running? I am really confused as to what the problem can be?

Very appreciative of any thoughts you have. Thanks

 

forgot to mention...Autozone sold me a set of wires that have a longer boot connection that attaches to the plug than the ones I had on the car.


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So this makes sense why the a spark plug (or four) may be misfiring. But after I put the old plug wires back on the car I still wasn't able to start it.

I have no idea what to try next!


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