REPLACE it!

Working here at a dealer, i've seen belts last longer than 60k and break right at 60,001. Major damage if it breaks. $2,500+ is one we had here at our shop.

 

i would say, get a haynes/chilton repair manual. That would probably be the best bet...

 

I have a 2005 Elantra w/ 70 K and plan to do my timing belt soon. I had one go in an Audi A4 and needed a new engine - OUCH! If you do alot of highway driving as I do, loosing all power in the center lane, at a high speed, surrounded by 18 Wheelers is not fun. Do it for your car and for your own safety.

 

By the way, are any special tools involved with replacing the TB on a Hyundai?
( locking pin, locking bar, anything of that nature?)
Anything else that needs to be replaced at the same time (Water pump, thermostat, cam seals, etc)?

Tks.

 

Although I haven't done it myself yet, I have investigated it. If you've done a timing belt before in a FWD car, then you'd know what is involved. It's a biotch of a job, and can take all day. There shouldn't be any special tools involved. Sometimes the main crank pulley is hard to get off, and you might need a puller for it, but usually with some perserverence you can manage to get it off. The other thing is to MAKE SURE THE SPROCKETS ARE LINED UP CORRECTLY BEFORE YOU CLOSE UP! Turn the crank by hand a few times to make sure the belt sets in correctly, and make sure the tension on the belt is correct.

It's up to you if you want to do the seals or the water pump. It's not a bad idea, but usually if that stuff is all good, I don't do it. Bare in mind that to do that is just more things that you might do wrong. Do a coolant flush, and change the oil a lot instead.

 

Prompt reply! Thanks, J

Well, I have an Audi and TB on that one requires at least a couple special tools, a crankshaft locking pin, and a camshafts locking bar. This is good news that no special tools are needed to be investing money in.
I already have a 2-3 arm pullers, so that's not a problem.

As far as water pump, thermostat, I learned long time ago that preventive is better than "too late"

Thanks again.

 

I have not removed the timing belt since it's been replaced about 4 months ago. Last night, I may have screwed up the timing when I disconnected the ignition coil and started it several times (compression testing).

I understand that my engine (98 Elantra Wagon, type M engine) is an interference engine. I know if the belt breaks then the valves may get bent. If the belt doesn't break, but I have ran it a little (less than 2 minutes over the course of 5-8 attempts to get it going) is there risk that I bent the valves? Or caused any other damage if the timing is off?

Any help is very much appreciated!

 

Do I need to get a belt tensioner to get at the spot where I adjust the timing? If not, how do I know when the belts are tight enough, but not too tight?

Also, do I actually need to remove the belt and sprockets to adjust the timing?

 

No, you don't need a belt tensioner.
No, you don't need to remove the belt and sprockets. In fact you can adjust it by only removing the top cover. It's a 10 minute job.
It's a "hold it tight and tighten the bolt" type. You estimate if it's tight enough by pressing on the long run of the belt with your finger and you should have 5mm of deflection.

 

that's good to know. Thanks for the tip. I was told that timing isn't my car's problem, but I can't find any other reason it won't start/run so I may check that out next.