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Proportional valve/brake system, 1999 Elantra Questions

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  #1  
Old 02-13-2011 | 11:47 PM
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Question Proportional valve/brake system, 1999 Elantra Questions

Hi,

I have a 1999 Elantra.... front disks and the rear drum brakes.... Non-ABS

I have a couple of questions about the proportional valve but first here is my problem. I have replaced corroded brake lines and wheel cylinders. Once I started to bleed the brakes I found I had no fluid/pressure to the right rear drum. I traced the line to the proportional valve, cracked it open and found no pressure on this one single line. I was able to bleed all the other wheels. Is there something I have to do to prime the line where I have no presure? Does the proportional valve have some sort of reset? I noticed a small rubber button in the bottom of the proportional valve but Im am not sure what I am doing at this point and if there is some procedure to follow if this is a reset? Finally, is the proportional valve just defective?

I know this is not the master cylinder because I have pressure to at least three of the wheels or is there something I am missing?

Thanks you for your help.

Any help would be useful! Does anyone have some info on the proportional valve?
 

Last edited by bhkbhk; 02-16-2011 at 10:38 PM.
  #2  
Old 02-16-2011 | 10:47 PM
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Question Looking for some help

Anyone???? Anything???
 
  #3  
Old 02-17-2011 | 08:22 AM
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My guess would be the prop-valve is bad. THe button on the side is usually just to reset the switch that lights the idiot light in the dash.
 
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Old 02-19-2011 | 10:35 AM
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Thanks NovaResource,

The proportional valve does not have a electrical connection, I should have been more clear, actually it has two rubber buttons (or seals) exposed on the bottom side as part of each chamber. Each chamber (2 of them) has an input line and 2 output lines. I am not getting fluid out of one of the lines (to the right rear). I thought that the proportional valve may shut off a line if it sensed a lack of presure due to a leak as a safty thing to prevent loosing fluid creating a total brake failure. I am not sure about this, anyway I replaced some corroded brake lines and bleed the brakes with no problem. After a quick test drive I was going to bleed the brakes again and than found I had no fluid going to the right rear. I think I may still have a leak causing the lose of fliud but at the moment nothing will pump through that line.

I guess I will try some other things.

I was hoping someone may have had this happen before.




Here is a picture of the valve but its hard to tell any detail.
 

Last edited by bhkbhk; 02-19-2011 at 10:37 AM.
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Old 04-19-2011 | 04:42 PM
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Default so, whow did you fix this?

Hi, my sister has asked me to help her find a replacement proportional valve for her 1999 Elantra and it is a) hard to find and b) almost 200.00. How did you fix yours?

Vilma
 
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Old 04-26-2011 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by vilmita
Hi, my sister has asked me to help her find a replacement proportional valve for her 1999 Elantra and it is a) hard to find and b) almost 200.00. How did you fix yours?

Vilma
Sorry it took so long to get back to you....

Anyway, I removed the valve from the car and place it in a vise. (Please read all of this before you start!!!)

1- I un-screwed the large nuts on the bottom (note: the parts inside the valve are spring loaded. However, the parts in the inside of the valve I took apart were frozen)
2- Once the large nuts are removed, I gently turned the shaft to loosen it up, as it loosen the spring pushed the whole assembly out. Be careful not to loose the parts when it breaks free. On the first one I did the spring hit the ceiling and I had to hunt for it. Also watch so it does not hit you in the face and put your eye out. Remember, it is spring loaded.
3- Once I had the valve disassemble, I cleaned all the parts with a cloth and used a Q-tip to get clean inside the cylinder. I only use brake fluid to clean things, I did not want to chance using something harsh and distort the rubber seals.
4- After I did all of this I blow the little ports out with my air compressor.
5- Once you are done the shaft that slides into the port should slide freely in the valve.
6- I tested it on the bench by blowing air into the input port and you should feel air coming out of the output ports.
7- Reassemble the same way you took it apart however it may be alittle difficult because you have to push down on the nut as you re-thread it because the spring is pushing on the nut.

Please be careful, I may have missed something here. But in a nutshell the thing was corroded and frozen into place and was not free to move. If it had bad seals or something worse wrong with it I don't know if you can get replacement parts to rebuild it. It is a simple device and I can't understand why it cost so much!!! Anyway it has been working fine since I cleaned it out. I hope this helps, I would try to fix it it before buying one. Good luck!!!


BHK
 
  #7  
Old 04-28-2011 | 03:28 PM
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Default Thanks!

Unfortunately, my mechanic does not have the time to do this type of work (we would have tried it as it seems logical enough). I found a used valve on the net and should be getting it this week. Paid $53. including shipping. I will keep your information handy if we run into any more problems. I sincerely appreciate the reply!

Vilma
 
  #8  
Old 04-29-2011 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by vilmita
Unfortunately, my mechanic does not have the time to do this type of work
Does not have the time? I'd suggest finding a new mechanic.
 
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