Hi to all. Just looking for some advice on how to handle this code. From what I have researched it is a bad O2 sensor. I had an O2 sensor replaced by dealer about 3 years ago under warranty. Can I do this by myself? I understand that there are 2 sensors, one by the manifold and the other by the flex pipe. How do I confirm which one it is? On another Hyundai forum someone said "P2626 - HO2S Pumping Current Trim Circuit/Open (Bank 1 / Sensor 1)
Replace the upstream ox sensor,, be advised, it is not inexpensive, it is a linear type sensor with 6 wires. .I would replace the sensor. its the first one (wideband) its super easy to get at as long as you have an 02 sensor socket."

The print out from Autozone Auto says----Linear heated oxygen sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1(HO2S11) pumping current circuit open / Probable cause 1. open or short circuit condition 2. poor electrical connection 3. failed HO2S11 ( Bank 1 Sensor 1)

Any and all advice would be very much appreciated! Angelo.
p.s. Is it ok for my wife to continue to drive the kids to school / her to work about 7 miles round trip a day, for the next week or so till I resolve the issue?

p.s.s. Just stumbled on this recent article titled:

Confessions of a Car Dealership Service Manager

One part of article said Q: Speaking of AutoZone, you can take your car there to have them read what a Check Engine light means. How accurate will that reading be?
A: Check Engine lights are big moneymakers for dealers and also the bane of a service manager's existence. Anyone can use a code reader. But what does the code mean? For every code there need to be additional diagnostics. I've had customers come in and tell me to swap some part, because they're sure it's the problem. But all that is is a really expensive guess. They might be right 10 to 20 percent of the time, close 20 percent of the time, and dead wrong 60 percent of the time. I had a customer go through six oxygen sensors when all it was was a shorted wire.

Is this a sign that I Should I just take it to the dealer????????

 

Bank 1 Sensor 1 is the sensor BEFORE the cat (by the manifold).
Bank 1 Sensor 2 is the sensor AFTER the cat (by the flex pipe).

 

Thanks NovaSource..........Do you have any comments regarding the partial article I posted from Popular Mechanics magazine? CODE READERS ---> ... But all that is is a really expensive guess. They might be right 10 to 20 percent of the time, close 20 percent of the time, and dead wrong 60 percent of the time. I had a customer go through six oxygen sensors when all it was was a shorted wire......... Should I take it to a dealer for further diagnostics? Thanks again you are always there when I need you! Angelo.

 

Code readers are correct 100% of the time but the people reading them not understand the problem correctly. Just because the code says there is a problem with the O2 sensor doesn't mean just replacing it is the fix. It could be the wiring. So the code reader just gives you a place to start. You still have to do some investigating.

 

Just in case I officially needed a o2 sensor, I checked a couple dealers in the area for a price. 1. $128 for a 4 wire type 2. $213 for a 6 wire type --This dealer could not tell me which one I needed. Another dealer used the last 8 digits of my serial # and said $193. I tried to clarify if that was a 6 wire type but he did not know off hand. Anyone know for sure which I may need? This seems a little complicated for such a simple part. If I find a better price on a non oem at Autozone is that a bad idea? Thanks, Angelo.