My 2005 Santa Fe needs new discs on the rear. I am mechanically inclined enough to do myself but the darn fronts gave me such a problem with the two screws holding the rotors on.....they were very soft and tight! anyhow, i was wondering if anyone did the rears and if they also have these screws on them? if so, any tips on getting them out without an impact?


why is the quote to fix rear brakes almost 100.00 more if they are the same?

Thanks in advance

 

The rears only have (1) screw per side..

TIP: Using #3 Phillips driver, place blade in screw head, and whack the handle a few times to jar the screw loose, then see if it'll turn.

If you twist the head, use drill to drill head off the screw, dont get too excited about the remaining stud, use it as an align pin, or remove the stud/grind it down.

I been doing Santa Fe brakes for last 7yr on and off as customer request replacement or I upsell..

When you have the mounting bracket off, pop the shims off, grind/file the rust off to bare metal, then replace the shims.. this will allow the pads to fit into the mounts easily, and not be tight/stuck.. pull (1) slide pin out at a time, and wipe the old lube off, apply a dab of new lube, re-install pin and move it in/out of bore a few times to distibute the lube and verify pin move freely.

 

Like was said above, if the screw head strips, just get a drill and a bit that is slightly larger than the threads but smaller than the head. Drill straight into the head until the head spins with the bit. This will remove the head from the threads and the rotor will slide off. Once the rotor is off, use pliers to unthread the remains of the screw. It should come out easily but if it doesn't, just grind it or cut it down smooth with the hub. I've done this many times and multiple cars. And you don't need the screws to keep the rotors in place. The rotors stay in place by the lug nuts sandwiching the wheels and rotors against the hub.

 

Thank you thank you!

 

Most of the brakes i have done are only held in by the rotor and the whole screw thing scared the crap out of me like..."what if it strips" but thought right past the whole drill it out and **** if i had to i could re tap the hole but like you said its not needed....these were the exact answers i was looking for.

Thanks again.

 

Hello
here are a few tips to remove the rear discs/rotors.

The Dealer tried to charge me $550.00 to do this simple job. I had a failed brake pad on the driver side rear which required me to replace brake pads and have the rotors cut. my cost = pads $55.00, rotors cut $30.00 = total $85.00

once the wheel is off you will see two phillips screws in the hub. They will be quite seized so use a good strong handled screw driver and hammer it into the screw as you apply slight counter clockwise pressure. This has worked every time for me saving me from having to drill out the screws or stripping them.

Before you take the caliper off, be sure to compress the caliper piston. This will make it easier to take off, but more importantly if you put new pads on, easier to put back. Do this by using a pry-bar and gently pry the back side of the caliper towards you. I do this by wedging my pry-bar against the coil spring in the wheel well.

remove the 2-14mm caliper bolts, then the 2-14mm mounting bracket bolts.
Dont let the caliper dangle from the brake hose!

in some cases the rotor will pull right off at this point, however in most cases it wont. This is because the park brake is inside the hub and is sticking to the drum. So now use a pick to remove the rubber plug in the hub area of the rotor. spin the rotor to position the hole at the bottom. You will need a flashlight to peer in the hole and find the star gear. Using a small flat head screwdriver you will be able to flick the gear up or down(depending on which side you are working on) to loosen the park brake. (if you go the wrong way the park brake will apply and the rotor wont turn. No worrys just flick it back the other way until it loosens) Now the Rotor will pull right off.

When reassembling be sure to tighten the park brake so it just misses grabbing the drum. Also test the park brake for slack in the pedal once you have those philips screws back in and adjust as necessary.