2000 Sonota Stalling / Sputtering
#1
2000 Sonota Stalling / Sputtering
Hello. New to the forum.
My 2000 Sonota v6 is having problems and I haven't gotten a single error code to work with. I also haven't found a way to "make" the problem happen.
At stop lights, on occasion, my call will start sputtering. Meaning the RPMs will go from normal to zero and back but will keep running. In this state as I start to drive off there is next to no power in the car and it feels like it's going to stall.
Other times the car will just stall out. I have also had the car stall out as I'm slowing down to make a turn. In every instance the car has always restarted immediately. As for the stalls, I've had a few occasions where I've started the car, put it into reverse and it would stall. Start it again, back up some and stall again.
As for fixes, I'm at a loss with out a code being flagged. I took it to a dealership where they told me I needed to replace the Purge Valve, Charcoal Cannister, Close Valve, and Vapor Sensor. So basically the Evap system. Without a code, I think they're just tossing things out and hoping for a stick with a price tag that made me stop to consider.
Also, these parts don't seem to be available on the open market (Autozone, Napa, etc).
Does anyone have any other thoughts to this, or does this sound right. If you need any further information from me to help here, please ask.
Thanks,
Michael
My 2000 Sonota v6 is having problems and I haven't gotten a single error code to work with. I also haven't found a way to "make" the problem happen.
At stop lights, on occasion, my call will start sputtering. Meaning the RPMs will go from normal to zero and back but will keep running. In this state as I start to drive off there is next to no power in the car and it feels like it's going to stall.
Other times the car will just stall out. I have also had the car stall out as I'm slowing down to make a turn. In every instance the car has always restarted immediately. As for the stalls, I've had a few occasions where I've started the car, put it into reverse and it would stall. Start it again, back up some and stall again.
As for fixes, I'm at a loss with out a code being flagged. I took it to a dealership where they told me I needed to replace the Purge Valve, Charcoal Cannister, Close Valve, and Vapor Sensor. So basically the Evap system. Without a code, I think they're just tossing things out and hoping for a stick with a price tag that made me stop to consider.
Also, these parts don't seem to be available on the open market (Autozone, Napa, etc).
Does anyone have any other thoughts to this, or does this sound right. If you need any further information from me to help here, please ask.
Thanks,
Michael
#2
Update:
I got a P0100 code last night. Mass Air Flow sensor.
Picked up some electrical cleaner. I've pulled and cleaned the MAF. After I put it back together, on the initial fire it seems well. I'll drive it later today.
But, I've also noticed a couple other issues.
Sitting in the car after putting the MAF back in, I had it in park and pressed the gas. At about 2200-2800 RPM the car starts a nasty shake and low frequency rumble. I'm guessing that might be what I've been hearing for a while now as I drove on the interstate in the 65mph range. Any thoughts on this?
Also, a couple of nights ago as I was driving, there were a couple of times that I was driving and I'd depress the gas pedal to go faster after coasting down a hill and there wouldn't be any reaction. My car didn't respond in any way for a few(4 or more) secs. The rpms didn't surge or anything. I just had a foot on the gas and I kept coasting.... Then it would kick in and I'd be off.
Thanks for any help.
Michael
I got a P0100 code last night. Mass Air Flow sensor.
Picked up some electrical cleaner. I've pulled and cleaned the MAF. After I put it back together, on the initial fire it seems well. I'll drive it later today.
But, I've also noticed a couple other issues.
Sitting in the car after putting the MAF back in, I had it in park and pressed the gas. At about 2200-2800 RPM the car starts a nasty shake and low frequency rumble. I'm guessing that might be what I've been hearing for a while now as I drove on the interstate in the 65mph range. Any thoughts on this?
Also, a couple of nights ago as I was driving, there were a couple of times that I was driving and I'd depress the gas pedal to go faster after coasting down a hill and there wouldn't be any reaction. My car didn't respond in any way for a few(4 or more) secs. The rpms didn't surge or anything. I just had a foot on the gas and I kept coasting.... Then it would kick in and I'd be off.
Thanks for any help.
Michael
#5
Fuel filter/low fuel pressure?
As it appears, cleaning my Mass Air Flow sensor has fixed that problem. I am now searching for a cause to the vibrations that I'm getting in the 2000 rpm range. I don't believe the car is miss firing, but I'll figure out how to measure the coils to test them. I'm starting to think I might have an engine mount going bad but only time will tell.
If anyone has any thoughts, I'd greatly appreciate it.
Thanks,
Michael
#6
Same Problems
Hey, I have a 2000 Sonata with about 118k miles. I have been having the same kinds of problems. I just had it serviced in June and all the belts and fluids and water pump were changed.
My car's RPMs are doing the same thing, dropping and fluctuating randomly, most often without any change in noise coming from the engine. It has died on me quite a few times, but not consistently after doing anything the same each time. It starts right back up, sometimes it takes a couple tries, but it always starts again. And when it dies the steering wheel seems to lock in place, I don't know if that is just because I have power steering though.
The Check Engine light will come on and off, and usually they don't go off by themselves, at least not that I have ever experienced before. It will mostly just flicker when I'm pulling away from a stop and trying to gain speed or when the RPMs dance around. It has stayed on for a few hours a couple times but always goes back off.
You said cleaning the MAF sensor solved some of your problems. Did you figure out any of the other issues? I really don't know anything about cars at all, so any help would be great! I don't wanna get robbed at a mechanic. Thanks!
My car's RPMs are doing the same thing, dropping and fluctuating randomly, most often without any change in noise coming from the engine. It has died on me quite a few times, but not consistently after doing anything the same each time. It starts right back up, sometimes it takes a couple tries, but it always starts again. And when it dies the steering wheel seems to lock in place, I don't know if that is just because I have power steering though.
The Check Engine light will come on and off, and usually they don't go off by themselves, at least not that I have ever experienced before. It will mostly just flicker when I'm pulling away from a stop and trying to gain speed or when the RPMs dance around. It has stayed on for a few hours a couple times but always goes back off.
You said cleaning the MAF sensor solved some of your problems. Did you figure out any of the other issues? I really don't know anything about cars at all, so any help would be great! I don't wanna get robbed at a mechanic. Thanks!
#8
And when it dies the steering wheel seems to lock in place, I don't know if that is just because I have power steering though.
As for your problems: I'd go to an Autozone and have them scan your car for codes. I believe they are the ones that do the free scan. In my opinion, with out a code you're shooting in the dark.
As for the stalling, yes, in my case cleaning the Mass Air Flow sensor solved my problems. It's a very simple thing to do. A quick google search will turn up plenty of directions. I went to Walmart and bought a $7.00 can of CRC (brand) QD Electronic Cleaner. It's a quick drying cleaner that leaves NO residue. Just pull the MAF, I sprayed down the sensor inside several times over 20 minutes and then let it sit and dry for about an hour. Then replace it back into the car. Pulling the sensor and putting it back in took about 3 minutes and a screwdriver I believe. It's really simple.
My other issue with the RPM shake I still haven't figured anything out on.
#9
rpm shake ...
I am new here and i don't have alot of wrench time on my 2000 sonata with 156,000 miles. I usually try the simple, easy, and cheap repairs first. If you want to save money you can rent the loaner tools from Autozone. Check what the fuel pressure is with a fuel pressure tester gauge. I would bet there is a nipple on the fuel rail on top by the injectors to connect it to. I would also try replacing the plugs and wires. when a bad wire or fouled plug gets loaded up with throttle, they tend to misfire. Also, it never hurts to spray in the throttle body/intake plenum and Mass Air Flow sensor etc. I would just replace plugs, wires, and fuel filter. You have a good shot of getting it and if not you won't have to worry about those items for a while . Plus, they are easy to do anyway. Let me know if that doesn't work. The Scan tool is definitely a good idea too.
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04-20-2009 08:01 PM