i bought Mobil 1 5w-20 and a Mobil 1 oil filter --i was going to do an oil change --well i ran out of time and had my plate full of things to do so i had a the lube place do it ---after watching them check "everything -air filter, wiper blades --etc. -- i see they don't prime the oil filter and as i'm watching this monkey open the oil containers --count 1,2,3,4, then 5 --put all 5 qts. in --he did check the dipstick a lot of times -----anyway it has 5 qts. in --i will be going to the owner tomorrow --but i would like a comprehensive list of problems that could occur from overfilling thanks Mike

 

What year Sonata and which engine in the car?

 

Since you didn't tell us what year Sonata you have or what engine it has, I had to search all your posts. According to this thread, you have a 2009 Sonata with the 2.4L Theta 4-cyl.

If you check page 9-4 of your owners manual, you will see it says that engine takes 4.54 US quarts with a filter change. So it was overfilled less than 1/2 a quart. That is not a problem and will cause zero problems.

Also, by "priming the oil filter" do you mean filling it with oil before installing it on the engine? If so, there is no need to prime the oil filter. There are many engines that have the filter in such a position where filling it with oil is impossible without having it pour out while trying to install it. I always put my oil filters on dry unless the filter threads on straight up. Unfortunately, the oil filter on my Tucson 2.7L V6 threads on sideways preventing me from filling the filter even partially.

If by "priming the oil filter" you mean cranking the engine without starting it to fill the oil filter, then I would say that is what I choose to do to my cars but it isn't critical to do. Unless the tech started the engine dry and floored it right away, I wouldn't worry about it.

If you are that concerned, don't take it to a jiffy lube place next time.

 

the only reason i even thought about bringing it there was that i wanted to get it done and had a very heavy schedule --anyway since in the manual they warn you so many times not to overfill //////////////// i'm curios as to what amount over would be a problem --And who the hell is going to fill more than 5qts -------- if overfilled what damage would you see first
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------by "priming" the oil filter i do mean putting oil in the filter before installing it everyone ,every book i have ever referenced had said to put oil in the filter before hand -

-i don't know just the experience of watching this little monkey feverishly check for something to sell me --wiper blades,air filter,coolant ,power steering fluid etc.. and to listen to this young kid tell me how he started and stopped the engine then start it again because they need to get oil in the filter and his little lie about me needing a quart of coolant -- trying to tell me my cabin filter with 2,000 miles on it should be changed just got me a little pissed

 

Problems from overfilling the crankcase can include, but are not limited to;

1)Aeration of the oil contained in the oil pan as now the surface of the oil is closer to the spinning crank/rods. This is also known as 'windage'.
2. Reduction in fuel mileage due to increased windage in the crankcase.
3. Possibility of increased pressures on the front & real main crank seals, causing oil leakage at crank.

If it was only overfilled by 1/2 quart, pick up a new oil filter at WallyWorld & just replace it. That should bring you back down to the 'FULL' level, or slightly under, on the dipstick. You do not have to drain the pan to do this.

Selling other parts & services is how these shops make additional bucks... like $4.99 for a license plate bulb that really is only $0.69. Tell the shop owner you'll point business away from him, and then call the company that he's a franchise of.... what was done was BS, and the apparent unwillingness of them to 'make it right' is worth never going back.

 

So how do you do that to a filter that threads on sideways like this?



You can't. My point is, it's not a problem on this engine to install the oil filter dry, and it won't be a problem to install the filter on your engine dry.

 

obviously on your motor and any like it you cant put oil in the filter -but where is the normal oil level compared to that filter? --i bet its above it so its always full when your pan is---------------do you have an exploded view of the 4cyl? i would like to see that

- i'm just saying all of the books, and mechanics i have even encountered all say to put oil in the filter first --i've been working on my own cars for 20 years -- its hard to not be concerned when all you have been taught is 1 way and someone does the opposite

 

The oil fill level has nothing to do with the filter location. Oil from the pan does not fill the filter from the pan. Oil must be PUMPED from the pan via the oil pump to fill the filter. So even if the oil fill level is above the oil filter mount, oil will not get into the filter unless the oil pump pushes it there.

And all I'm saying is, starting the engine after an oil change with a dry filter will not harm your engine. The filter will fill within a second or 2 and pressure will build.

If you are so concerned with having your oil changed YOUR way then do it yourself and don't use the excuse of having "a very heavy schedule". This is at least the second time you've taken you car some place to change the oil. You took it to a dealer just 4 months ago when it had 11K miles on it. You complained about them too. (Hmmm . . . I'm starting to see a pattern):
https://www.hyundaiforum.com/forum/s...ead.php?t=6884

Bottom line, your engine was not damaged by that oil change.

 

Over the years, I have seen oil filters mounted right side up, upside down, sideways, and i even remember the old 'canister' filters on small block Chevys & oil screens on VW's.

It's nice, but not necessary, to add oil to the filter prior to installation.

The air contained in the filter is purged in the first several crank rotations on engine start, and the delay you see on the gauge/light is as the air is purged by from the upper oil gallery. This upper gallery is allowed to drain when you pull the filter, as oil is 'trapped' in the upper part of the motor by the anti-drain back valve in the filter.

Very few engines with overhead cam(s) and hydraulic lifters have check valves to prevent drain-back, (Suzuki being one on it's 2.0L & 2.4L engines), but do rely on the filter. The lifter clatter you hear on engine start-up after changing the oil is the air coming out of the lifters as it's being replaced with oil. 'Bumping' the starter after an oil change may soothe your ears & valve clatter, but really doesn't do much.... bearings, valve guides, cam/lifter contact points & rings will be lubed on start-up by the film of oil left behind for several seconds due to the shear strength of the oil.

I say this as a guy who worked clearancing and teflon-tipping 6-71 & 8-71 blowers for AA drag cars straight out of high school, then did 20 spinning wrenches in Uncle's Air Force on some smokin'-*** hot jet aircraft. I still ''dabble' in blown E-85 and alcohol motors......

If you have a low confidence level in the local grease monkey, DIY.

 

yes, Nova i complained about the dealership asshats too ---the car went in for a NY state inspection -- I told my wife to have them do an oil change while shes there -- i figured why not, its due -how much could it be ?? and they cant screw that up - ---------- well i sure found out --


so i guess
i've been misguided about my oil filters



i have my ramps in the driveway i'll be doing them myself from now on even if its going for anything else --like tranny service,timing belt --(those i will not be doing on this car) or warranty service