I have an '08 Sonata 4 cyl. with 73,000 miles and the check engine light came on the other day. Had it checked and code P0011 came up. The person at autozone, seeming not too sure of herself said this meant it was the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I took it to a mechanic and they said it'd take a long time to order it. So i said hold off (till i researched more) and had the oil changed.

Driving home after the oil change 5 miles down the road my check engine light went off.

MY CONCERNS:

1. After doing research i find that code P0011 given for my car doesn't translate to the Crankshaft Position Sensor (which is actually P0335.)

2. Engine light being off now, do I wait a couple of days or possibly months to deal with this further and go about my business or do I act now? (Commentors, thanks ahead of time & please note the 08 Sonata has a timing chain, not belt.)

 

P-0011 has ended up being an oil control valve replacement on the 2.4 THETA.. You can do it yourself, just move vac line off intake, remove oil temo sensor so you can get at bolt holding OCV in head.. you'll need long extension and a TORX bit to remove the bolt.. 15 minute job..

OCV has new part number, and is shorter than the original part... also keep the oil change regular to prevent oil from clogging the filter for the OCV system.

 

I have a 2006 GLS 6V Sonata with 118,000 miles. I just got the P0011 " intake camshaft Position Timing"
Error.

Can I just replace the camshaft sensor or might this be something else. About the same time the check engine light came on I noticed that the car would idel funny. It would not stay as a constant RPM and when no gas was applied it would fluctuate about 100-250 rpms.

 

An Accounting of the last Month and a half. Hyundai Sonata 2008 167k, 2.4 liter. You'll see I did some tune up stuff with it also. I just need that light to go off so I can bring it for inspection. After the throttle body the car has been running well. After I cleaned the MAF sensor the car has been running great.

starts at July 31st.
1. Car went into limp mode. Regardless of if you stepped on the gas. drive by wire; I cleared the code, and tried to have the car relearn the throttle position by 1 click at a time turning of the ignition, waiting a minute in between each click. Probably the same as blowing into the old nintendo cartridges...but hey it worked. Car started, drove it home.

2. Replaced the throttle body. Can't just replace the solenoid, used, amazon prime day. Code went away, idle seemed ok.

3. two days later, MAF error code. Apparently, I used too much "armor-all" taking the airbox apart and some dripped in. I cleaned the sensor with spray, reset the code.

4. Received P0011. Um...ok...one code at a time I guess. Asked my wife if I can buy a new-old Sonata, big NO on that one. I got an oil change and replaced the Crank position sensor. Replaced the Battery, because....well, it was time, why not, maybe there is a weird voltage when starting the car throwing false errors. reset the codes.

5. Drove into a ditch after rear tire blew out. (I think someone knifed the rear tire, the sidewall just split) had bodywork done to the car on the passanger side. New door skins, handles, mirror, matched paint. They turned the Airbag light off, and it hasn't come back. Now just the TPS light from not getting the Summer Tires keyed. (the winter were)

6. Replaced headlights to make the car look fancy. Clay barred the exterior.
Now the car looks new. Check engine light comes back P0011. Have to adjust the light to point straight, I'll try that tonight. (Weird, no adjustment screw so to speak, kinda line'em up and tighten.

7. Just replaced spark plugs with fancy iridium ones. Replaced oil temp sensor and intake Oil control valve. I couldn't find the exhaust side one. Plus I'm running out of gas myself, I need like a coffee or something.

I'm going to clear the code tonight, drive for a day or two and see if the code comes back. Any thoughts? Any cheap easy fixes I can try?

 

P0011 is a DTC code for bad cam shaft timing
Can be caused by the variable valve timing and/or oil control valve
Search for you tube video

 

Ok, well the light came back. As I said with my previous post. I already have changed the Oil Control Valve. And I think, I have a Theta 2.4 FF engine that doesn't have an exhaust side OCV.

I looked at the plugs I pulled from the car.

1st plug. Totally fine. Probably would run another 60k.
2nd,3rd,4th plug are white on the tip, and the ceramic is discolored.

They are identical plugs and I changed them all at 90k.
the manual says there can be a couple of reasons for this.
1. Wrong heat range of plug. But if that was the case, they'd all be burned.
XX

2. Cooling system problems. I haven't noticed the car overheating or anything like that. I had the radiator flushed and refilled last winter.
XX

3. Intake manifold leak. Possible I suppose, but it doesn't idle rough or anything. I'll spray while running and see if the idle changes, but I doubt it.
Possible.

4. Lean fuel mixture. I had the injectors serviced about 6 months ago, and there is no lack of power.
XX

5. Sticking valves. I have no loss of power...but I do hear tic tic tic from the valves. I can try sea foam or gunk out and see if it clears it up. This may clear up P0011 but i'm doubtful and this may be a whole separate problem. If the spring is weak on a few lifters I'm f#@$ed. I'm pretty good at maintenance stuff, but that I'd have to take to a mechanic. A used engine would probably be cheaper. (although that might be a whole mess of new problems.)
Possible...God help me.

6. Over-advanced engine timing. Well that's the code I'm getting. But it's an electronic ignition, I can't just rotate a distributor. There are parts to swap like the ECU or Ignition condenser. Since I already replaced the OCV, I may have to pull the valve cover off and see what's going on. I still may have to take it in at this point.
Most Likely

 

Ok. I haven't had time to really check on things.

I asked my friend at work who owned a shop and he suggested a few things.
First he said that my methodology was correct. And chances are it could be the Oil Control Valve. But after that you need to take the valve cover off and really look to see if the cam sprockets are lined up.

He mentioned the chain guides could have shifted or the tensioner weak so that it may have enough give to change the timing enough to throw a code. He said I should check for vacuum leaks first. It may have nothing to do with the code, but the car is older.

My Father inlaw suggested running the car in 2nd gear for a little while to see if the cam is stuck and maybe the action of it trying to go back and forth might free it up.

So I haven't had time to look under the valve cover. Or check for leaks yet, but I did run the car in 2nd gear for like 15 minutes about two days ago.

And the next day the CEL went off. So I'm going to get it inspected. I'm now curious to take the valve cover off anyway, because I really didn't fix anything, just to check what my friend mentioned.

 

So it's been about a month and the light is off.

I cleared it using a different reader, and figured I'd take it in and get the car inspected.

I did, I told the mechanic everything I did. He checked it and couldn't find anything wrong with it. Did the inspection and said come back if anything wasn't working.

The light never came back.

 

did the code ever come back?

 

I kept getting codes P011 & P014 which says camshaft sensors position A & B. After doing a lot of looking online it seemed the ocv was usually the main issue. Easy to replace & so are the camshaft sensors so I replaced all of them. Replaced the coils & spark plugs also. Didn’t change anything. Still kept getting the codes & didn’t have much power, had to limp up hills. I had just bought the car from someone who had kept up on oil changes normally but it was 1500 miles past due when I bought it & had sat most of the winter so I changed the oil right away the next day. Well after all of that stuff I did & still didn’t fix the problem, I decided to run some high mileage seafoam in my crankcase & drove around for about 60 miles. Went home & changed the oil again even though the current oil only had about 200 miles on it. I used a Hyundai oil filter also which I had read in rare instances where using other filters for some reason caused problems. Cleared the codes & went for a drive. I instantly felt the difference. Had power back, didn’t have to floor it to make up hills. Been about 300 miles so far & still no issues. Don’t know if there was some sludge causing issues, if it was the oil filter, or maybe a combination but that was what fixed mine. The plugs needed changed anyways but I wasted quite a bit of money & swearing changing those sensors for no reason. Lol.