Turbo Engine Care: Do's and Don'ts
#1
01-04-2011 | 09:04 AM
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1
Turbo Engine Care: Do's and Don'ts
I have just purchased a 2011 Sonata SE 2.0T Turbo.
I am new to turbo engines and would like information on what to do and what not to do in order to take care of this type of engine.
Any information regarding care of a Turbo engine in general or anything specific for the Sonata Turbo would be greatly appreciated.
Lastly, the car only has 75 miles on it as of today, however the engine and inside the passenger cabin smells "Hot" after driving a few miles back and forth to work at less than 45 mph under very light driving conditions.
Is it normal for this type of engine to smell "Hot" at this stage of ownership?
All informative comments are welcomed and appreciated.
Regards,
TurboMan
I am new to turbo engines and would like information on what to do and what not to do in order to take care of this type of engine.
Any information regarding care of a Turbo engine in general or anything specific for the Sonata Turbo would be greatly appreciated.
Lastly, the car only has 75 miles on it as of today, however the engine and inside the passenger cabin smells "Hot" after driving a few miles back and forth to work at less than 45 mph under very light driving conditions.
Is it normal for this type of engine to smell "Hot" at this stage of ownership?
All informative comments are welcomed and appreciated.
Regards,
TurboMan
#2
01-04-2011 | 11:45 AM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,301
From: Cyberspace
Modern turbos don't really require any unusual special treatment. My only suggestions are to allow the engine to idle a minute or two before turning it off to allow the turbo to cool down and to be sure to change the oil regularly.
The "hot" smell you are getting probably just the engine and parts breaking in. I know my Tiburon stunk for a few days when I first bought it as the coatings on the exhaust that protect it from rust during shipping burnt off.
The "hot" smell you are getting probably just the engine and parts breaking in. I know my Tiburon stunk for a few days when I first bought it as the coatings on the exhaust that protect it from rust during shipping burnt off.
#3
01-04-2011 | 02:54 PM
Junior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 13
I agree with the above information, but would only add that you should not hammer on any cold engine, especially a turbo one. Letting the oil get up to operating temperature (which takes a lot longer than the coolant) is a good idea.
In town, under a light load, you probably don't have to worry about letting the turbo cool off before turning off the car. On the highway or right after climbing a grade, that's probably good advice.
I remember one trip with my 1987 Turbo T Bird (and metalurgy and turbos have come a long way since then) -- we were climbing out of Death Valley, loaded up with 2 adults, 3 kids and all our luggage. I thought we were going to fry that engine, as the temp gauge was pegged for miles. Did I let it cool off at the top? You bet!
In town, under a light load, you probably don't have to worry about letting the turbo cool off before turning off the car. On the highway or right after climbing a grade, that's probably good advice.
I remember one trip with my 1987 Turbo T Bird (and metalurgy and turbos have come a long way since then) -- we were climbing out of Death Valley, loaded up with 2 adults, 3 kids and all our luggage. I thought we were going to fry that engine, as the temp gauge was pegged for miles. Did I let it cool off at the top? You bet!
#4
01-10-2011 | 11:29 AM
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 57
The TD04 turbo in your car is the same turbo in the Subaru Impreza WRX from 2002-2007. Here is some info on the cooling of the TD04 turbo.
Basically, this means you dont have to let the car cool down because of the turbo, it cools itself.
Here is the link where the above info can be found, and also a link on turbo performance and information in general.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465156
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1218459
The heat contained in the turbo charger will begin to vaporize the coolant at the turbo charger after the engine is stopped. This hot vapor will then enter the coolant reservoir tank which is the highest point of the coolant system. At the same time the vapor exits the turbo charger, coolant supplied from the right bank cylinder head flows into the turbo. This action cools the turbo charger down. This process will continue until the vaporizing action in the turbo charger has stopped or cooled down."
Here is the link where the above info can be found, and also a link on turbo performance and information in general.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465156
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1218459
#5
01-10-2011 | 12:46 PM
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,301
From: Cyberspace
My post about a cooling-down period was for the oil, not the engine coolant. It was meant to allow a fresh supply of oil to cool the turbo bearings. Under "normal driving" this isn't required but if you are driving hard or towing then it is a good idea. Over time standard oil can coke up in the turbo cooling lines from the excess heat, starving your turbo of oil and ultimately cause its failure.
Personally, I'd use full synthetic oil and a cool-down period if you plan any "spirited" driving.
Personally, I'd use full synthetic oil and a cool-down period if you plan any "spirited" driving.
#6
01-11-2011 | 11:12 AM
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2
My post about a cooling-down period was for the oil, not the engine coolant. It was meant to allow a fresh supply of oil to cool the turbo bearings. Under "normal driving" this isn't required but if you are driving hard or towing then it is a good idea. Over time standard oil can coke up in the turbo cooling lines from the excess heat, starving your turbo of oil and ultimately cause its failure.
Personally, I'd use full synthetic oil and a cool-down period if you plan any "spirited" driving.
Personally, I'd use full synthetic oil and a cool-down period if you plan any "spirited" driving.
Not that your other info was incorrect by any means, Im just confused as I was reading the other posts above...
#7
01-11-2011 | 11:59 AM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,301
From: Cyberspace
Engine oil is not just a lubricant but a coolant as well. Yes, it cools the bearings.
More good reading on the subject:
http://www.turbosafeplus.com/news_clips.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbocharger
More good reading on the subject:
http://www.turbosafeplus.com/news_clips.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbocharger
Properties and applications
Reliability
Turbochargers can be damaged by dirty or ineffective oil, and most manufacturers recommend more frequent oil changes for turbocharged engines. Many owners and some companies recommend using synthetic oils, which tend to flow more readily when cold and do not break down as quickly as conventional oils. Because the turbocharger will heat when running, many recommend letting the engine idle for up to three minutes before shutting off the engine if the turbocharger was used shortly before stopping. This gives the oil and the lower exhaust temperatures time to cool the turbo rotating assembly, and ensures that oil is supplied to the turbocharger while the turbine housing and exhaust manifold are still very hot; otherwise coking of the lubricating oil trapped in the unit may occur when the heat soaks into the bearings, causing rapid bearing wear and failure when the car is restarted. Even small particles of burnt oil will accumulate and lead to choking the oil supply and failure. This problem is less pronounced in diesel engines, due to higher quality oil typically being specified.
A turbo timer can keep an engine running for a pre-specified period of time, to automatically provide this cool-down period. Oil coking is also eliminated by foil bearings. A more complex and problematic protective barrier against oil coking is the use of water-cooled bearing cartridges. The water boils in the cartridge when the engine is shut off and forms a natural recirculation to drain away the heat. Nevertheless, it is not a good idea to shut the engine off while the turbo and manifold are still glowing.
In custom applications utilizing tubular headers rather than cast iron manifolds, the need for a cooldown period is reduced because the lighter headers store much less heat than heavy cast iron manifolds.
Reliability
Turbochargers can be damaged by dirty or ineffective oil, and most manufacturers recommend more frequent oil changes for turbocharged engines. Many owners and some companies recommend using synthetic oils, which tend to flow more readily when cold and do not break down as quickly as conventional oils. Because the turbocharger will heat when running, many recommend letting the engine idle for up to three minutes before shutting off the engine if the turbocharger was used shortly before stopping. This gives the oil and the lower exhaust temperatures time to cool the turbo rotating assembly, and ensures that oil is supplied to the turbocharger while the turbine housing and exhaust manifold are still very hot; otherwise coking of the lubricating oil trapped in the unit may occur when the heat soaks into the bearings, causing rapid bearing wear and failure when the car is restarted. Even small particles of burnt oil will accumulate and lead to choking the oil supply and failure. This problem is less pronounced in diesel engines, due to higher quality oil typically being specified.
A turbo timer can keep an engine running for a pre-specified period of time, to automatically provide this cool-down period. Oil coking is also eliminated by foil bearings. A more complex and problematic protective barrier against oil coking is the use of water-cooled bearing cartridges. The water boils in the cartridge when the engine is shut off and forms a natural recirculation to drain away the heat. Nevertheless, it is not a good idea to shut the engine off while the turbo and manifold are still glowing.
In custom applications utilizing tubular headers rather than cast iron manifolds, the need for a cooldown period is reduced because the lighter headers store much less heat than heavy cast iron manifolds.
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