Short run down. About a year or so ago, my sisters 04 XG350L would randomly stall on the highway and not restart sometimes, check and found a faulty Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor, replaced it, cars been fine since. About two weeks ago, her car died again and now would not retstart at all. Check to find it had zero fuel pressure, replaced the fuel pump, has great pressure now, but still no start. Pulled the front plugs, were all fouled. They were the original plugs and car has 83k on the motor. Replaced all 6 plugs, still no start. Had a code for a low frequency MAF sensor. Bought a sensor off a local guy for next to nothing, plugged it in today, still no start. That code is no longer present, however now I have a p1193. From basic searching, it seems as if this code points to a bad ETS motor on the back on the throttle body, but I just thought I would post to make sure. I know you cant tell me positively thats what the problem is, however, just maybe a good idea. I should say this though, the car does start, it just runs horrible and does not rev up RPMs like it should, stays around 2-3k. Pulled the air tube off and seen the throttle body is basicly full of fuel..from my understanding, that ETS motor is supposed to bring in more air and mix with the fuel that enters in the small line going into the bottom side of the throttle body, and it seems like there is not enough air entering to keep it running. So, does this sound about right? More than likely that ETS motor?
Thanks for any help and happy new year!!

 

The P1193 simply indicates the ETS is in limp home mode. Here are the diagnostics for ETS motor from http://www.hmaservice.com:

Check ETS motor
(1)Ignition "OFF"
(2)Disconnect ETS motor connector
(3)Measure resistance between terminals "1" and "2" of the ETS motor connector.
(4)Measure resistance between terminals "1" and "3" of the ETS motor connector.
(5)Measure resistance between terminals "2" and "3" of the ETS motor connector.

A.Specification:
Approx. 0.6 ~ 1.5Ω ("1" → "2")
Approx. 0.6 ~ 1.5Ω ("1" → "3")
Approx. 0.6 ~ 1.5Ω ("2" → "3")


Difference between each resistance should be less than 0.5Ω

(6)Is the measured resistance within specifications?
YES▶ Substitute with a known-good ETS unit and check for proper operation. If the problem is corrected, replace ETS unit and then go to "Verification of Vehicle Repair" procedure.


If ETS unit needs to be replaced, do "ETS Initialization" after it is replaced.
NO▶ Check ETS motor for contamination,deterioration, or damage. Substitute with a known-good ETS motor and check for proper operation. If the problem is corrected, replace ETS motor and then do initialization.

And go to "Verification of Vehicle Repair" procedure.


※ Procedure of ETS Initialization
1. Erase the trouble codes on PCM
2. Turn the ignition key on less than 1second and turn it off(Do not start the engine)
3. Turn the ignition key off and keep this condition until the main relay is turned off.(It will takes 10 second)
4. Turn ignition key on more than 1 second to record the throttle motor position on the EEPROM

 

Man Ken, Thanks. You helped me last time with the APPS diagnosis.

I am going to swing down the road to her house tomorrow and OHM out that connector.

I forgot to mention though, I havent looked at the schematic for the ground circuit for that ETS motor, but I did notice that when I pulled the intake plenum off when replacing the spark plugs, the #5 injector harness connector that plugs into the injector, it looked like the two wires were actually melted somewhat together. If they are all on one splice, meaning the injectors and that ETS, I could have a crap load of resistance in that ground circuit. However, I have not checked that ETS with the diagnosis for the ETS you gave me, so I will not jump the gun. I will report back tomorrow, or if you know if that ground is the same circuit as the injector, that might help as well.

Thanks again, this site is awesome.

 

Well, I went down this morning in the 6* weather, and unplugged the ETS motor. Tried measuring the ressiatnce between the two terminals with a lead from my DMM on each terminal, and it reads OL all the time. It is not showing any resistance at all in the curcuits, and it should be. Im not supposed to be installing a jumper wire between the two terminals and measuring the resistance between the jumper and a ground am I? Just found it kind of odd that the DMM is not reading anything, and it is a Snap On DMM. I found on Alldata that the circuit for that injector wiring is not on the same splice as the ground for the ETS sensors. However, the other day when I measured the resistance from the ground to the TPS connector and battery ground, I had about 240 kohms, which would be 240,000 OHMS of resistance, lol.

Am I missing something here?

I also called my local dealer just to price out an ETS motor and its $800. He said they havent sold one in over a years time frame too. That does not mean much, but it kind of shows me that its not a popular failure part, like the APPS is. He said a tech by him told him its probably the APPS, but I dont think. I replaced that about a year in a half ago, and that code was a P1151, not a P1193.

Can anyone else shed me some new light here on any ideas? I am trying to fix it for her by the end of the weekend.

Thanks again.

 

No resistance tells me something has shorted out it the motor. I think I would sort out the ground wire situation and test the motor again befoe replacing it.

A whole ETS may be cheaper than the motor itself. Maybe rebuilts are available. To be honest, you are one of the few I've known to actually replace ETS componenets. Most folks simply replace the unit. I think I would start googling for Hyundai XG350 and/or Kia Amanti parts. The Amanti was pretty much a XG350 clone up to 2006. Sorry, no epiphanies at this point.

 

I will look around for a Kia Amanti part, probably a crap load cheaper.

There was no resistance on any wire, none of the three. That was with the key off, and the three wire connector unplugged from the ETS motor. I priced out the complete throttle body, its a whole unit. Comes with a TPS, ETS, and IAC. Thats the only way the ETS motor is sold, as a complete unit with the Throttle Body, well atleast that is what the dealer parts dept told me.

I find it odd that there wasnt any resistance on the ground circuit atleast, because according to that schematic, the TPS I tested with 240,000 OHMS of resistance shares the same ground as the IAC and a ETS motor.

Maybe I should test it again tomorrow or Monday before I buy a non returnable 800 dollar throttle body.

Do you know if there are any common areas for burnt up or pinched wires on that engine?

I should probably just go ahead and pull that intake off again and repair that injector wiring before it burns out the injector internally as well.

 

Published specs are published specs, but I always like to confirm readings with my equipment on another unit especially on a vehicle I've never worked on. Seldom possable, but sometime a salvage unit helps. Any chance of finding a used unit you could test before buying? I agree with you on the injector wire repair.

 

Ya I picked up a used throttle body this morning from a local scrap yard. They said I would have it in a couple days. $200 for the used throttle body and they said I could return it if it does not fix the problem. I have used this yard many times, so they do not really give me any troubles. So probably wednesday or so, I will pull that lovely intake off again and repair the injector wiring and slap that new TB on and see what happens.

I will report back with an update when possible.

 

Very good. Don't forget to initialize the new ETS once you get it installed.

 

Update:

Got a used TB Wednesday, the connector coming off of the ETS motor was cracked and terminals were showing inside connector. Return it, order another from a different yard, get it, same thing, just not as bad. I tried patching it with some sealant just to try it, installed the TB, same thing still no start. Could be the TB still since its technically still a broken connector. So, I guess I call Monday and try and locate another however, its been tough trying to find one. I am starting to wonder if the fuel pump isnt good either. Not sure what the code numbers were, but it was showing a Fuel/Air metering codes, and a MAF code again. Fuel pump also does not prime when keyed up, is that normal? It only runs when the engine is trying to start. I noticed this motor does not have a fuel schrader valve either to check fuel pressure!

Any other ideas you guys can throw me in the meantime while I wait for another TB...?

Thanks.